I kind of had this epiphany while talking with some friends about different interesting numeral systems and their various advantages and disadvantages. I ended up thinking this system up while I was in the shower, went back to my desk and knocked it out in an hour or so. It takes aspects of the Kaktovik numeral system invented by the Inupiaq tribe, and combines them with some aspects of the Cistercian numerals.

I think that this numeral system fusion can look very wizard-y, and be easy to write and do math with.

I've abbreviated it as b10CK, which I think is pretty clean.

Been studying RISC-V for... I think a year now. Bought the booklet outlining the ISA's modules, and have been working down from there.

I have seen various startups and actual products, as well as a bunch of simulators, but I haven't really seen any projects trying to design a RISC-V CPU from the ground up.

Are there any groups doing this? I don't think I'm at a point where I could meaningfully contribute, I'm mostly interested for educating myself.

I'm currently trying to get better at reading and am doing that by accumulating a library of public domain books, since they're free and easily available.

• If you have a specific work you love that was published pre-1928, or is currently not under copyright, feel free to comment it down below.

• if you have any authors you think are worth reading, also post them below.

I'm currently reading Jack London's "War of the Classes", and I have "Carmilla" by Joseph Sheridan Le Fanu, and "The Picture of Dorian Gray" by Oscar Wilde downloaded for later.

I got a Fairphone 4 after security updates were discontinued on my Samsung Galaxy S9 and I figured out it couldn't be flashed with a new OS (it was a fantastic phone while it lasted- was honestly Underutilizing its overall power. Got 5 years out of it).

TLDR : read the last paragraph

I am honestly taken aback by the transparency in regards to the FP4's construction. The repair manual gives the part number, quantity, and purpose of every single component on the PCBs. You get the full schematics as well.

Obviously I can replace any major part/board until support stops (they're saying they'll support it for 3 more years minimum), but I imagine that I could stock up a couple spare parts and treat the device well and get much longer from the hardware. As for support for the OS, I got the phone through Murena who put their own custom OS on it, but I imagine I could flash a new OS onto it without much problem.

The things I am thinking about are past that point. If replacement parts no longer get sold and something fails on one of the boards, I don't know the feasibility of finding a replacement component. Like, I imagine getting a matching capacitor wouldn't be an issue, but can you even find a replacement snapdragon or WiFi chip? And while we're talking about hot-air soldering on replacement parts: do PCBs have a duty lifespan? Is it more likely that my screen'll just die long before anything else?

Basically, assuming I treat this phone right and don't break anything in a drop, how long can I glide this fella out? what's the shorest lifespan parts that'll fail first - and what kind of lifetime can I suspect? What are parts I could consider replacing with a similar part? (I own a 3d printer and do diverse material fabricating as a hobby).

Just got done installing the new shell from JSAUX! Had some pains to go through that I want to let you folks know about.

First and foremost, if you have the 512GB steam deck that comes stock with an anti glare screen, DO NOT pry from the side that JSAUX shows in their video. Pry from the other side. They are using the standard screen in that video.

For reference, if you look at the 512GB steam deck screen, and go to part only, and look at the rear-side image, there is a "buffer space" on the left side (opposite the ribbon cable) of the screen for prying under the adhesive (for whatever reason they have the screen upside down in the image). On the 64/256GB steam deck screen, the buffer space is on the right side, with the ribbon cable. If you try prying under the right side of the anti-glare screen, you immediately run into the ribbon cable and are likely to damage it. I just barely had to buy a brand new screen to finish this project because of this.

Second thing. When trying to pry the screen off the adhesive, it is very easy to completely slide your spudger directly in between the shell and the screen. You should reference where the positioning triangles are on your empty shell, and pry at one of those locations. It greatly simplifies removing the screen.

Lastly, when removing the triggers, do as shown in the video carefully. The hall effect sensors (tiny little chip on the board under the trigger magnet) used by each trigger on the board are very exposed. if you force one of the triggers off, you can easily knock that hall effect sensor off. I only noticed the little chip sitting on my desk during reassembly. I managed to hand solder the little guy back on and it ain't a pretty job but it works.

Hopefully this hard-knock wisdom helps some of y'all avoid my mistakes.