[-] [email protected] 16 points 1 week ago

It's in perpetual beta and is free as long as you don't want to run multiple copies at a time. I had so many DVDs to rip I bought a license. It can also rip UHD Blu-rays if you have the correct drive. Not sure why it would say it's too old, are your date settings in windows correct? The forum is filled with people doing exactly what you describe and is a great resource. https://forum.makemkv.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=20579

[-] [email protected] 27 points 1 week ago

MakeMKV is pretty much the standard for ripping Blu-rays. You can then use handbrake to reencode to something more efficient.

1
submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 4 weeks ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

I think this fits the rules but If this doesnt let me know and I'll delete. Hey all, Overall problem statement: I'm looking for a small device (SBC if available) that I can use as a tail scale access point for travel and I'm hoping someone has done something similar. Basically I would like to have something small enough that I can toss in my travel bag that I can hook into a hotel network and have access to my home services (mainly jellyfin) on my kindle/work laptop. Not all of my devices support VPN or tailscale and having them already on a known network with built in VPN makes it 10x easier to deal with when traveling (login into hotel WiFi with a kindle Paperwhite sucks!) Ideally it would have dual gig Ethernet and built in WiFi. If this works out well enough I would like to give a few of these to the family so they can access things as well, so cost is a bit important.

I found a banana pi R3-mini that I thought would work out of the box (wifi6 + dual gig + small) but it seems too new for full software support with tail scale and I don't currently have the skills to roll my own software for it. Is there anything out there that you all have used for this type of use case?

I know I can switch to wire guard but I'm not confident I can set that up securely and reliably but if that's my only option I think I did find a good guide.

So I'm at a crossroads of learning to build my own openwrt install with the correct packages, learning how to setup wire guard, or asking for recommendations.

Edit: Thanks for all the recommendations. Looks like openwrt has released a new build for the banana pi that I have so I'm going to try that again before trying to setup wire guard. The GL.inet devices look like they have an older version of openwrt, so they support tailscale via the openwrt package manager but it can be unstable. Some people have even called it alpha on those devices. So I'm hoping the newest version on the bpi-r3 will allow a more stable tailscale. I'll try to report back once I play around with it more.

[-] [email protected] 21 points 3 months ago

Please for the love of God, toast your tortillas in the pan before assembly. They are so much better. Other than that, this looks good.

[-] [email protected] 16 points 3 months ago

Walking up a mountain to start then back down is 1/2 as hard as walking in to a valley and then climbing out even if total distance and elevation are the same. Relationships have been destroyed over such mistakes.

If you are going alone or small group. Tell people when/where you are going how long you expect to be gone what trails you expect to take and make sure you call them to report youre ok when done.

[-] [email protected] 56 points 3 months ago

He can't pardon himself from a state crime.

[-] [email protected] 32 points 3 months ago

From the post: I'm a SysOps engineer at a fairly large online casino. We have around 4 million monthly active users. We had been happy Cloudflare customers since 2018 on the "Business" plan which has some neat features and costs $250/month for "unlimited" traffic.

This seems a bit like abuse of the business plan not cloudflare bs. They are using the cdn for 4m users for $250 a month.

[-] [email protected] 25 points 6 months ago

My guess is this is a covid spike after a holiday where many candles were purchased/gifted.

[-] [email protected] 27 points 6 months ago

Oh man the university ptsd as an engineer. I once asked a physics prof at what width does the split slot experiment break down, she couldn't understand the question. All the other engineering students were nodding their heads in agreement with the question and tried to explain the question in a different way, still no idea what we were asking.

[-] [email protected] 57 points 8 months ago

Brother lasers are pretty great.

[-] [email protected] 24 points 8 months ago

I just got 2 of these (x22 version) for my Jellyfin. Supposed to be here tomorrow! I don't think I could drop $1k for that many.

[-] [email protected] 42 points 9 months ago

Bro, trust me bro - dumb AF execs.

[-] [email protected] 35 points 10 months ago
  1. Remove all the contents and drawers from the vanity.
  2. Turn off/disconnect the plumbing.
  3. Look inside for any screws that would go into the walls and remove those. Specifically around the top, base, and sides of the vanity. You might find how the sink top is attached to the base as well, splitting those will make it lighter but maybe not easier. 100% depends on the assembly.
  4. Cut the caulk between the wall and vanity top. Probably goes all the way around and maybe under the lip.
  5. Lift up on the corner of the top/vanity. Everything should lift up and start breaking away from the wall. It should lift with some weight but you shouldn't have to really leverage on it to move it. If it still feels attached, look for more screws.
  6. Have fun replacing it.
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jj122

joined 11 months ago