I tried my hand at rigging a proximity sensor to the water meter in my house. Sadly it doesn’t have the spinning magnet for the sensor to pick up.

I looked into other options for pulling data from the meter, but for each method, my very antiquated meter had a complication that would prevent it from working.

TLDR: Any recommendations for a home water meter that’s local and integrates well with home assistant?

I’m going to check with my water company first, but likely will remove the old meter and replumb a new “smart” meter and an automated shut off valve into the water supply. I believe the current meter is leftover from before the utility added new meters further upstream, so I’d rather get rid of the rusty piece of junk anyway.

I'm following the settings on WLED's wiki for the WS2814 strip:

6-LED groups (24V) as one logical LED. Must be controlled as SK6812 type, color order: BRG, swap W and G (this option is available since WLED 0.14.0-b1)

But the lights just flicker like crazy. Switching WLED settings definitely does something, but not the intended effect.

Using the domestic automations controller. On the latest WLED firmware. LEDs are powered directly by a 24V 10A PSU. Originally I thought my data cable was too long but it still has all the issues plugged directly into the controller.

Has anybody got these strips working? Is the WLED wiki wrong?

I have a backup server running Proxmox Backup and OMV in separate VMs. OMV provides the storage as an NFS to the proxmox backup server VM.

I have multiple remote servers that connect to the proxmox backup server but recently I keep having issues with backups. Something about file lock estale.

Is there an alternative to NFS I can use in OMV to provide the storage for the proxmox backup server?

I know there are vastly different configuration options, but I have some other things set up with OMV so I’m kinda stuck on that.

Try as I might, due to the abundance of various types of low voltage wire connector types, I can't seem to find exactly what I'm looking for.

I do a lot of LED strips and DC powered automations and I've used many Wagos and soldered some stuff in place. These tend to have some problems though. Wagos can take up too much space, especially when connecting power to LED strips that can't be tucked away. Soldering in place sucks and usually ends with a poor connection. LED snap on clips are ridiculously unreliable and weak connections. Barrel connectors are nice and small but the connection has the potential to pull out.

The holy grail IMO would be a very small plastic two wire housing that can clip together like a plastic belt buckle or those connectors that often come with 12V DC batteries in battery backups/motorized kids toys. I have no idea what term to search for to find these.

Anybody got any hints?

I like the idea of presoldering these onto the ends of LED strips in lieu of barrel connectors, so once you are ready to install in the location it's as easy as snapping in place. If the LEDs burn out it can be replaced easily as well.

I realize this is a woodworking community so don’t kill me, but I’m in the process of upgrading my tablesaw with a new fence so it’s somewhat related. Plus there’s no metalworking community that I could find on Lemmy.

To the point: I’ve got a piece of steel angle I want to use for the back rail on my table saw (where the end of the fence rests), buts its Swiss cheese full of holes and some holes are in awkward locations where I need to drill new holes to mount to the table saw to. Anybody dabble in welding know if I could fill in the holes with a mig welder and grind it flat? If so, any tips? I’ve got a flux core mig machine.

I bought the Delta T3 fence kit for my rigid saw because people online said “super easy to install. You only need to drill and tap a hole or two”. That turned out to be bullshit. 😅

If you notice your chat messages show up in the chat feed but don't appear on the streamers in-screen chat, you have been shadowbanned.

Twitch will still take your money for donations, subs, etc, but your feedback won't be seen by anybody but you. This shadowban does not appear in the appeals page and can be applied randomly and intermittently. You are never informed about this by the way. You'll likely be talking in a chat and assuming you're being ignored. Hop into a private tab and load up the stream where you'll be able to notice if your messages are missing in chat.

From my observations, there seems to be some type of algorithm/system that determines who to shadowban. I'm assuming it assigns extra points for factors like VPN usage, Linux, and adblockers. Once you've been shadowbanned, switching one of those three will not work to unban you until some arbitrary timer expires.

I'm posting this in case anybody else has experienced this and felt frustrated and isolated. You're not being ignored (unless you're a twat and are being ignored). You're just being punished by Twitch for being privacy conscious.

Twitch has gotten insufferable with ads lately. Sometimes I'm getting 3mins straight of ads.

To add insult to injury, twitch is buggy as hell and I often need to refresh and usually it loads new ads.

I used to have a special config in ublock specifically for twitch but that doesn't seem to work anymore.

Any tips?

I'm dangerously close to running out of space for my VMs on local-lvm, but noticed I have a lot of free space in my local storage where I only have a dozen ISOs stored.

Can anybody help me figure out how I'd go about shrinking the local storage so I can extend my local-lvm?

Anybody familiar with quadro cards?

I'm currently running an old Titan X for monitor display only and an RTX 3090 for computing/rendering.

If I run any monitors off of my 3090, I eventually get a BSOD when running renders or AI models. I think it's a driver issue due to being forced to use the driver for the old Titan card.

So I'm looking to get a quadro card for my 5 displays, a mixture of display port, dvi, and hdmi.

Anybody got any affordable recommendations? It will need to have at least enough processing power to run my viewports in 3dsmax and blender.

So I’ve been putting off upgrading the fence on my trusty Rigid 4512 for a few years.

I’ve got a big cabinet project coming up and of course my fence of choice, the Vega 40 Pro is no longer available.

Anybody have experience upgrading the 4512 and have any recommendations?

EDIT: Considering Delta T30 and Shop Fox W2005.

I’m looking for a small 7” or 8” computer monitor to keep on my desk to display Discord and other things without taking up real estate on my main monitor. Ideally something cheap and therefore not a touchscreen. There’s tons of options online but I’d like to get some recommendations from people who have a similar product and enjoy it.

Something similar in shape and size as the StreamDeck XL would be great. Obviously just a screen though.

After a very enlightening discussion in a previous thread, I decided to plunge into a mesh type network to connect my various servers and devices.

Nebula has been fairly straight forward to set up so far, but I’m having some trouble with the details and am curious if anybody has successfully got Nebula up and running for their network.

Installation on Linux platforms has been a breeze. Windows I can’t seem to get working. I was able to install but the service refuses to start. Can’t find any documentation besides random GitHub issue threads. MacOS was easy to install but having issues due to a VPN that’s running already.

I use a VPN because I travel a lot. I also use my MacBook to SSH into my servers or access remote file storage. My previous network configuration was connecting via wireguard to my network. I was able to do this while maintaining an always on VPN with the mullvad app. With Nebula that VPN seems to muck things up.

I’m also curious if anybody has had experience setting up a dual config for Nextcloud. Essentially accessing a Nextcloud server from nebula with a trusted device while still allowing public access for things list public shared links.