3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: [email protected] or [email protected]
There are CAD communities available at: [email protected] or [email protected]
Rules
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No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
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Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
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No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
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No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
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Do not create links to reddit
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If you see an issue please flag it
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No guns
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No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is 
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
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I have printed ABS things that I use for scuba diving and freediving. It's like 4 years since I first printed them and they have been hours and hours in the sea.
ABS is great ... but then I bought some ASA. It's even greater since it's UV proof.
ABS is hard to print due to retractation. I have to use glue. I have less issue with ASA, it's easy to print, I don't know if it's due to the different brands.
ABS and ASA are making nasty fumes when printing. Be careful.
Finally, the last advice is to get one nozzle dedicated for ABS/ASA. The issue is that it needs to be printed at high temperature. Way higher than PLA. If you try to change the filament, the nozzle is either too cold to melt and purge ABS/ASA properly, or too hot and the PLA will be carbonized inside the nozzle. The nozzle will be clogged one way or the other. The solution is to dedicate one nozzle for PLA/PETG and one for ASA/ABS. It can be painfull to recalibrate the Z-offset on older printers.