(I know Linux is better than Windows, there's a better time and place for that talk)

SPECS: OS: Windows 10 Pro N Motherboard: MSI MPG B550 Gaming Plus CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X GPU: NVidia GeForce RTX 4060 Ti RAM: 4x HyperX Fury DDR4 8GB sticks (two rated for one clock speed, the other two rated for another. As I understand it the faster sticks will just run at the speed of the lower two, and it deffo ain't causing issues cause I've tested games with just one pair or the other. Both gave me crashes)

Minidump file: https://www.mediafire.com/file/g34xykxagp29246/050524-8937-01.dmp/file

Simply put, built a custom Windows machine and it gives me BSODs on many more recent games. Deep Rock Galactic, crashes within seconds to minutes of actual gameplay (not including the hub). Remnant: From the Ashes, crashes within minutes on the overworld. Starfield, crashes within minutes to two hours. Blood West, crashes within five minutes of gameplay. Helldivers 2 works fine ingame, but once I quit the game it blue screens within seconds of returning to the desktop.

I've reinstalled drivers. I've disabled sound drivers. I've popped the computer open and reseated everything at least two or three times so far. RAM was tested using MemTest86, no issues at all. CPU temps tend not to exceed anything higher than the 70-75 range ingame (hot, but my processor is rated for up to 90 Celsius). I've reapplied thermal paste four times. I'm on my third install of Windows so far, with this being the Pro N version rather than the Pro version I tried the first two installs. I've had a bit of a go at googling the highlighted files in the Minidump file, but at this point I'm all but giving up. If the Internet can't fix this shit, I'll just sell the components or machine at a loss and stick with an older gaming laptop.

Youtube takeout has given me empty null files.. Please help!

I bought a new external monitor recently and have had the issue of an intermittent display signal

Disabling the monitor in device manager fixes the issue and the monitor works fine when disabled so it's highly likely its some weird software issue but I'd like to find a proper fix for it

I am able to get it to have constant display signal by chance sometimes without disabling the display in device manager but turning off the external display brings back the issue when I turn it back on and it reconnects

OS: Windows 11

Display: Lenovo G27QC-30 with Lenovo's drivers installed *have tried with Microsoft drivers and run into the same issue

Have already tried uninstalling and reinstalling monitor on device manager and reinstalling drivers and that hasn't fixed the issue

Also have already tried using display driver uninstaller to clean install graphics drivers

Edit:

the events tab in windows device manager for the monitor properties does show this error sometimes:

Device not started (monitor)

Device DISPLAY\LEN66F4\5&3287afbc&1&UID4352 had a problem starting.

Driver Name: oem64.inf Class Guid: {4d36e96e-e325-11ce-bfc1-08002be10318} Service: monitor Lower Filters: Upper Filters: Problem: 0x0 Problem Status: 0xC00000E5

Edit 2:

The monitor will work fine once if i restart my laptop but disabling and re=enabling in device manager causes the problem

Hi all!

I have an RX 7900 xtx AMD graphics card and by default it is enabled. In windows it is easy enough to disable through the adrenaline software but there is no such thing on Linux.

So far I've tried with both corectrl (1.3.11) and lact (0.5.4) and with lact i have been able to edit the fan curve but that only takes effect after the threshold of the zero rpm, which is annoying.

If it's of any help, my model is the sapphire vapor-X.

Thanks in advanced!!

The only one I've found is this one, but it doesn't work. It only triggers if I open the keyword interface and save it after every page load. I don't know enough to fix it.

I would occasionally like to use (wired) headphones, but 90% of the time I am fine with just hearing the audio that comes out of the crappy monitor speakers. If I plug the 3.5mm cable into the monitor's headphone jack (even without headphones attached), then no audio will come out of the speaker anymore.

It is really cumbersome to plug and unplug the cable from the monitor, because I have to pull my desk away from the wall and bend upside down to even be able to see the port where I am supposed to plug it in.

Is there some simple solution to this problem, or am I just stuck using one or the other? I have a small desk and don't really have room for external speakers.

I have a laptop with both a dGPU and iGPU. when gaming i see the nvidia dGPU in use but the Activity Monitor remains "grey". If i open the app i see it lists the game is using the dGPU. At some point the Activity Monitor will switch from grey to colored to properly indicate that the dGPU is in use.

Later, after I close the game the Activity Monitor will remain lit up, even though it's correctly showing no programs using the dGPU.

Should i just accept that this app is pretty awful?

At work I have a Windows PC. I don't have much personal experience with Windows which is why I am asking.

I want to remap the caps lock key to function as a control key. Ideally, on a per-user basis as sometimes other people use the workstation and I don't want to confuse them.

• Was able to install Auto Hot Key. A test script worked. However I couldn't find working instructions about how to do this specific remapping. Example scripts I found seem to have some conflict between v1 and v2 of AH.

• I don't have admin access however I could probably ask for something, but it would have to work immediately without a lot of fooling around. I will not be granted admin access to try a bunch of things til I find something that works.

What's the best way?

I recently encountered an error with my router that required a factory reset in order to fix. I figured since I was already resetting everything, I'd might as well reorganize my network. I switched from 192 to 10 based IPs. I got all my devices configured and everything connects to the internet fine, no hiccups anywhere, except when I try to access my Windows network shares using any device on the network. They worked prior to the reconfiguration, but I also did updates when rebooting the machines, so I don't know what the problem is. The errors I get are 0x80004005 (Unspecified error) when attempting to access \10.0.1.{deviceIP} and 0x80070035 (The network path was not found.) when attempting to access \{deviceName}. I've disabled all my firewalls, I've tried the registry changes, reconfiguring services, reconfiguring and even resetting network settings (including NetBIOS), and I'm out of ideas as to what the issue could be. The device shows up under Network on other devices, but attempting to access it hangs for a minute or two and then gives 0x80070035. FWIW, my network is configured to have 10.0.0.x be infrastructure (router and DNS), 10.0.1.x be personal devices (PCs, laptops, phones, anything I own, etc.), and 10.0.2.x is DHCP for visiting/guest devices or anything I can't configure myself.

Any help is appreciated.

I'm trying to rescue data from an old Huawei Ascend P6 with a broken screen, is there a way to get access to the data and clone it, without screen interaction?

I got a new Mobo. Windows installer doesn't see the nvme drive. For some reason the bios has a million settings and are all alien to me.

I took a lot of photos of all the settings, so many unknown entries

The motherboard is from an unknown Chinese OEM and it's using a laptop core i7 but in a itx form factor. I have no idea of the brand, really. The box just says "motherboard" and there's no silkscreen on the PCB (it was very fun guessing which pins were for the front panel). No user manual was included. The bios it says "version: default string"

I hate when OEMs lock down bios settings but here is the opposite, they enabled everything

Hello everyone, is there any cable that I can buy that is female usb c to male usb c? I have a steam deck dock and would like to be able to also plug my laptop in to it by use of a usb c extension cable that can carry video. Does such a thing exist?

I know that with the recent changes to the Twitter APIs it is extremely possible that if this was possible, it is no longer possible, or unlikely, but still as I recall with the Reddit API changes the third-party apps were going to stop working and although I don't use Reddit, I have seen that many Reddit apps still update and here on Lemmy there are those communities that are a mirror, although I guess they are an RSS.

Also, I want to clarify that I know I don't need a Mastodon account to follow an account there, but I wanted to explain it in a way that was easier to understand.

Hi, the issue I’m having is pretty straightforward and I don’t want to bore you:

I have a Mac and a Win11 PC on the same private network. I have a folder on Win11 that I want to share with Mac, and the other way around.

I’ve set up a new local user on the Win11 machine with accesso to that folder only (for security reasons). It has a user and a password, and when I try to connect to a new “server” on MacOS (cmd+k) and I input the folder path, I then log in with that user’s credentials just fine.

The issue is with the Mac folder shared on Win11: I’ve enabled SMB file sharing on the Mac and given the permissions on that folder to a “sharing only” account I’ve created locally. When on Win11 I try to connect to the Mac (I have to input the Mac’s IP, using “smb://…” doesn’t work), it asks for the credentials and it always says the “network password” is incorrect. The weird thing is, if I input the main MacOS account’s credentials I read the folder just fine (and everything else if course).

What am I doing wrong?

My neighbor was having issues with his PC freezing up during games, saying his CPU fan specifically) would ramp up. He then bought new parts and asked me to build him a new PC to replace it which I did (we exchange handiwork). Now he's wanting to give his old parts to a friend of his who had an even older PC. So I've got another build which was mostly parts from his old one with the exception of a new power supply and graphics card.

At first, 3/4 of the time I wouldn't get any video. I noticed he had two different sets of memory so I stress tested each set individually and in each of the DIMM slots. It all tested fine and I was getting video more consistently when only using a single set. I was using stress to test both the CPU and memory and never came across any freezing or other issues.

I've tried going into BIOS to see if any settings in there were causing issues with the mixed memory but regardless of the configuration or using the on-board graphics, I get no video in BIOS.

Now, regardless of configuration, I'm getting no video in BIOS or an OS 100% of the time.

CPU: i7-9700F
Motherboard: ASRock B364 Pro4
GPU: RTX 3070
Memory: 2x 16GB DDR4-3200 (CMW32GX4M2E3200C16) + 2x 8GB DDR4-3000 (CMW16X4M2C3000C15)

Print-to-PDF is locked down. There's a print option as part of the software, but it slaps my student email diagonally across every single page, which makes reading it kind of obnoxious.

I don't intend to distribute (which I'm assuming is why it's locked up so tight), but needing to log in and navigate to the text is getting cumbersome, so I'm hoping to just save a chapter at a time to my phone and whip that out to tackle my reading assignments.

Also hoping to preserve images, since a lot of the info is charts and such, so PDF seems like the best target, but open to any ideas.

...I suppose I could just suck it up and deal with their annoying software, but at this point I hate to admit defeat lol.

The folders are accessible on every other device and SMB is enabled on the host machine. I'm trying to access hundreds of gigabytes of game roms via Retroarch when I'm out of the country so I'd appreciate an easier method if one exists, but I've ran through every troubleshooting guide I can find online, but the share folders still don't exist according to my phone. I've also tried 5 or 6 different file manager apps, but they all say the same thing

If someone sees this in the distant future, I'm still looking for a solution so please reach out.

Hello everyone! I encountered a weird bug yesterday that I wanted to run by you guys to (hopefully) find a solution. I recorded a short (10s) video on my pixel 8. Then I sent it to my wife's iPhone via signal. She then tried to send it to her family via imessage and upload it to social media, but was unable to do anything with it besides watch it. The cheap solution ended up being sending the video over MMS, but as you know that compresses the video to JPEG hell. Have any of you ran into this bug and/or have solutions/workarounds that don't completely destroy the quality like MMS?

Edit 1: bonus points for solutions which check the WAF box!

The power supply on my XPS 8930 gave up the ghost, so I replaced it with a Corsair CX750M (probably not relevant).

While I was at it, I also replaced the case with a Thermaltake CTE T500 (probably relevant).

I connected the power switch to pins 6 and 8 on the front panel connector, following the diagram at XPS 8930, GPU and CPU Liquid Cooler, PSU, Case Swap, Upgrade.

Things work as expected: I can power the computer on and off with the power button, all cool.

BUT: Every time the computer boots, I get an error message from SupportAssist during POST: "[...] Alert! Power Button Cable failure". I click Continue, and everything is peachy.

Does anyone know how I can get rid of this message? Did the power button in the original case know some secret handshake that the new one doesn't?

At this point, I would be OK with disabling the SupportAssist self check altogether. I don't need any SupportAssistance to know that the machine is getting a little cranky.

Context: I need to have installed a a program called Smowl, which is a closed-source app that records EVERYTHING to make sure you don't do weird stuff while doing an online exam. To avoid installing such monstrosity on my laptop, and since virtualbox is probably banned, I wanted to use a persistent bootable device to have the program installed and know that everything works well in a few days.

Tails and booting software: I tried with Tails, but the software doesn't work there because it's too private. I also tried using other tools other than ImageWriter or dd to make other distros persistent, but if I use Unetbootin the distro doesn't get recognized when booting the laptop, and I the other tool that I found to have similar powers is mkusb, but it's no longer maintained and it cannot be installed on Arch (there's a compiling issue).

MX Linux: I also tried MX Linux, but I don't know how to make it persistent in the first place because I followed all the steps but I don't get it to show me the last session to boot to or the "text menu" option of this guide. I tried this several times, with two pen drives (8GiB both), but I got no luck, even when using MX Linux live USB tool to make the other pen drive bootable. What am I missing?

Hey, I saw the post last week about a quest for a MMORPG mouse and it inspired me to ask for help as well. My needs are similar but not exactly the same from the OP last week:

1. Gaming MMORPGs and FPS (like everyone I guess)
2. I want specific 3 or 4 buttons additional to the front buttons, placed on the sides
3. Under 100g
4. Length up to 127mm (small hands)
5. No thumb rest is probably best.

It doesn't seem that we have many new mouse models with those requirements which is a bummer. I identified some ambidextrous mouses distributing the buttons which I think I could perhaps make it work but not sure. Here are the ones that I found. PLEASE COMMENT IF I SHOULD REMOVE ONE OF THOSE FROM MY LIST OF CONTENDERS AND WHAT WOULD YOU PICK:

a. ~~Razer Viper Ultimate~~ -- disqualified because is Razer

b. ~~Logitech G PRO~~ -- 60 hours battery may not be enough for today standard

c. Pulsar X2A

d. ~~Razer Viper 8khz~~ -- disqualified because is Razer

e. ~~Alienware Tri-Mode~~ -- side buttons can't be disabled if desired

f. ~~MMOPRO~~ -- mouse sensor not optimal

g. ~~Machenike L8 Pro~~ -- not sure if it has a third button on the sides

h. Edifier Hecate G4M Pro

i. Kone XP Air -- looks to be what I'm looking -- at 126mm it may be too large for short hands (in another context this sentence would be quite odd)

j. ~~Pwnage~~ -- having to adopt a criteria this one uses 3370 sensor and the newest mouses are using the 3395 sensor. So, keeping the mouses with 3389 and 3395 sensor in this list. It also features only 38mm of height and it may not be ergonomic to use the buttons on the right side

k. ~~Ducky Feather~~ -- this has option to choose between Kailh 8.0, Huano Blue and 60M Switches, however they doesn't seem swapable and given that it is not wireless it may be better to cut off

l. Lenovo Legion M7 -- at 127mm it may be too large for small hands (in another context this sentence would be quite odd)

m. Keychron M6

n. Glorious Model l 2 -- probably the winner. Although, I will need to find a way to either accept the thumb rest or get rid of it

Final considerations, I don't care if is wired or not. I see myself almost all the time with the mouse wired. Although would be nice to be USB C featured for a paracord cable.

I need most help to understand those techinical differences that I'm not very familiar.

Thank you for the inputs

EDIT: I gave up. The mouse that I'm looking was not created yet. I decided to go with a light regular 2 side buttons mouse.

So, i use linux, i don't have any windows install on my disk, but someone wants me to install windows on their HDD, so, if i plug said HDD on one of my sata ports and try to install windows 10 on it, will it mess with my linux boot? if yes, is there a way to prevent that without physically disconnecting my main drive? (my main is an nvme ssd, that's why I'd rather not remove it, already suffered enough trying to screw that in ther

Edit: Fortunally i got to convince the person to bring their whole PC, so now i won't have to deal with this anymore! Thank you very much for all the answers everyone

Hi,

I have a WD 2TB passport that is making this weird clicking sound. I've had it for a while now. Is it time to get a new drive?

https://imgur.com/a/SpZyupL

I created this script at ~/.config/i3/scripts/qt6ct.sh to set QT_QPA_PLATFORMTHEME depending on whether I'm using Plasma or I3wm:

#!/bin/bash
CURRENT_DESKTOP=$(echo "$XDG_CURRENT_DESKTOP")

if [ "$CURRENT_DESKTOP" = "i3" ]; then
    export QT_QPA_PLATFORMTHEME="qt5ct"

elif [ "$CURRENT_DESKTOP" = "KDE" ]; then
    # Si estás usando Plasma (KDE), comentar la línea que exporta la variable
    unset QT_QPA_PLATFORMTHEME
else
    echo "Gestor de ventanas no es i3 ni kwin: $CURRENT_DESKTOP"
fi

echo $CURRENT_DESKTOP
echo $QT_QPA_PLATFORMTHEME

I created an autostart program and added this to my i3 config file

exec ~/.config/i3/scripts/qt6ct.sh
exec source ~/.config/i3/scripts/qt6ct.sh

I don't know what's wrong with it, but if I run it on a terminal, I get this (screenshot):

➤ ~/.config/i3/scripts/qt6ct.sh 
i3
qt5ct
➤ echo "$QT_QPA_PLATFORMTHEME"
                    
➤

So this script doesn't really export anything at all.

I have searched on every file that I thought could be exporting it as a null value (~/.bashrc, ~/.profile, ~/.bash_profile, ~/.xinitrc, ~/.Xresources, /etc/environment, /root/.profile, /root/.bashrc), but everything looks fine (no QT_QPA_PLATFORMTHEME anywhere, or is commented).

Solution

The only thing we'll need in.xprofile is sourcing the script:

#!/bin/bash
CURRENT_DESKTOP=$(echo "$XDG_CURRENT_DESKTOP")

if [[ "$CURRENT_DESKTOP" = "i3" ]]; then
    export QT_QPA_PLATFORMTHEME="qt5ct"
    export QT_SCREEN_SCALE_FACTORS=1.5 # 1.5
    export QT_AUTO_SCREEN_SCALE_FACTOR=0
elif [[ "$CURRENT_DESKTOP" = "KDE" ]]; then
    unset QT_QPA_PLATFORMTHEME
    export QT_AUTO_SCREEN_SCALE_FACTOR=1

else
    echo "Gestor de ventanas no es i3 ni kwin: $CURRENT_DESKTOP"
fi

echo $CURRENT_DESKTOP
echo $QT_QPA_PLATFORMTHEME
echo $QT_SCREEN_SCALE_FACTORS
echo $QT_AUTO_SCREEN_SCALE_FACTOR 

Like in the Home tab, the "Styles" seems like exactly what I need, but it applies the changes to the entire paragraph vs just the selected text.

Pic below of what I'm trying to do:

Just started nursing school (woo!!) and I'm trying to make review guides for my class. There are like 50 of those questions for every chapter, ~10 chapters for every unit exam, and a unit exam every couple of weeks. ...for the next two years. >_>

There are a metric FUCK TON of these questions, so I'm trying to make them as easy on the eyes as possible so that we can review them as quickly and effortlessly as possible.

Anywho, in the pic, question 3 is the format I'm shooting for - letter answers bolded, red, and caps; answer key tucked away with right side alignment, small, light grey, and italicized so we don't prematurely see the answer as we're scrolling.

Question 4 is how the text appears in the textbook, which makes it hard to scroll though them without seeing the answer prior to considering all the options, and seeing the answer early kinda sabotages actually learning the content.

The ideal study scenario being read the question, discuss which answer we think is right and why, check our answer against the grey text, and move on.

I know you can change formating with find and replace, but then the entire document is filled with sentences that end with things like "fractured bonE." so afaik the best approach is to just ctrl+click/drag to select the letters, then then click the bold/red/Aa and move on to the next one and repeat.

Any tips to automate this would be outstanding, since there will literally be thousands of these throughout the entire program.

Thank you!!