cross-posted from: https://slrpnk.net/post/11931430

https://www.pcgamer.com/gaming-industry/ultrakill-dev-says-its-fine-to-pirate-his-game-if-you-dont-have-money-to-spare-culture-shouldnt-exist-only-for-those-who-can-afford-it/

I shoplift to survive, it’s not like a hobby, there’s nothing revolutionary about not paying for shit. Walmart will continue to exist. If its existence was ever genuinely threatened, they would put cops at every entrance and fuckin chase you hard. Seeing people roleplay like they are some master criminals for lifting some potato chips just throws me off kilter. Lifting is badass but there’s nothing revolutionary about it. I do it so I can afford food.

Found this two-month old nugget while posting an announcement in the Hamilton community.

Archived

• Lidl owner invests lots of money on Israeli tech companies
• Lidl produce comes from Israel
• Lidl caught mislabeling Israeli-sourced food to deceive boycotters

Just wondering if anyone does this. I occasionally find food that expired yesterday. Of course it’s still safe to eat but the shop has no choice but to trash it. So why not nick it?

And what if you get caught? Do they care that you were stealing something they had to waste? The value is zero. You’ve only cheated them out of accurate book keeping.

Before: A Shoplifter's Guide to Tags (TODO)

[Info might be outdated, its atleast 2 years old]

What's up fellow lifters?

I've been using magnets and experimenting with them for awhile now. They have a lot to do with shoplifting so I'd love to share that with you. At request of Pesky-Wabbit.

In my opinion there's three types of magnets you need to shoplift, each one I will cover in depth. Those being:

1. An S3 key
2. A golf magnet or detacher
3. Regular neodymium magnets

1. S3 Key

l'll go over the uses the S3 key first. An S3 key has a series of two separate magnets inside. One where each notch is on the S3 key.

The most useful and pretty much the only use for an S3 key is to open SpiderWrap. (The black circle with the wires surrounding the box, usually on electronics)

I've heard people say you can use them to open other things, however in my experience they really only unlock SpiderWire.

Where you can purchase an S3 key?

Amazon, eBay, and AliExpress are a select few! They can be had for as cheap as 8 bucks.

[If someone wants to share a link in the comments, that would be great!]

You can also lift one, if you don't want to wait the 30 days it takes to get here from China. I personally went with this method, although I wouldn't do it again.

The easiest place to lift an S3 key is probably Walmart. To be successful this is going to take some effort on your part. To find my S3 I ended up going to 4-5 different Walmarts in my area.

First you're going to be looking for a Walmart with a garden section and an S3 attached to that register. You need to case each of your Walmarts until you find exactly what you're looking for. Go into the Walmarts garden section and casually look for an S3 attached to the register. Most Walmarts have S3s on every register, MOST. This is where you might need to shop around!!

Once you find a register in the garden section look at what's keeping it tied to the register. Most the time it will be a metal wire attached to the register looped to the key.

Have a game plan when you come back. You're going to return at night, because there is absolutely no one in the garden section at midnight. I had wire cutters in my jacket and proceeded to cut the wire and slip it into my jacket. That's the easiest way, If it's connected that way.

IMPORTANT!!

Each legit Alpha systems S3 key has a RFID chip inside. This will activate the EAS towers when you leave the store. You'll need to wrap it in tinfoil before you leave. Honestly it's not that hard to make a tinfoil pouch to throw the key into. Once you get home open up the key and take out the RFID chip. [In the original there was an image here, if you know a guide please add in in the comments :)]

I highly recommend you buy it instead. If you buy a third party S3 key they won't have an RFID inside. ** Crafting your own S3**

I've made a couple S3 keys and they've left me with a certain longing. They just don't do anywhere near as good a job as my factory alpha key. Sometimes they would work sometimes they wouldn't. Again I highly recommend you buy it, but I will link how to make an S3 below. It can get very frustrating because you're working with two magnets very close to each other trying to keep them separate. I pinched my finger on multiple occasions.

[Link to YT vid I found, never tried tho]

2. A golf magnet or detacher

These are going to be an investment, they're not cheap and they take time to get. It's about half the size of a base ball maybe 3/4 the size. It's heavy and bulky but DAMN it works.

These range anywhere from 25-200 bucks. I paid 36 for mine with a hook detacher as seen in the picture. Unfortunately the shop I bought from closed or else I would link it. I did buy from AliExpress, and surprisingly it shipped to me in around 5 days. (US)

The important thing you need to realize when buying a detacher is the magnets pull strength. It's measured in gauss. The increments usually go 12,000 to 15,000 and then to 25,000 gauss. I would recommend the 15,000 gauss detacher.

Obviously the stronger the gauss the stronger the magnet, it's going to work better. If you're lifting clothes this is a must. My 15,000 detacher pops off any ink tag without effort. No more pulling or twisting it just pops right off.

I would buy my detacher again in a heart beat. I highly highly recommend them, and I'll go into more depth in the next section as to why it's so much better than a regular stack of neodymium magnets.

3. Regular neodymium magnets

These are just your regular N52 grade magnets. Neodymium is the strongest magnet there is, and that's why we use it.

The more gauss you can get the better. Most likely these aren't going to be very strong. (In comparison to the detachers) In this formation with quarter size magnets, (around 12) I have found they only open one or two tags.

These pencil tags were the most reliable at opening. This still took effort twisting and a little pulling until it would pop open. They also opened the Alpha screamers(image of a similar tag) very reliably.

These are nice because they can fit in your pocket and you can lift them from Home Depot really easily. Hands down though the golf detachers win by a land slide. These are also what you'll be using to make an S3 key if you decide to go that route.

In regards to where you put the magnet on the tag is going to depend. Usually there will be a little nub and that's where you'll put it. Weaker magnets you might need to move it around and wiggle the tag a little.

Summary and TLDR

Basically I just listed all the info required to use magnets when lifting. There was shit info about magnets on this sub and so hopefully this helps you noobs. Remember using tools can result in a worse charge if you're caught. Let me know if I should add anything down below!

Be careful and hopefully you liked this, it took some time.

Next: How to Find and Use Blind Spots

This is basically just a cleaned up version of the Raddle Shoplifting Guide

Before: A Shoplifter's Guide to Magnets

Blind spots are quite easy to find and use if you know what you're doing. In this guide, I'll be talking about how to find blind spots, as well as how to use them correctly.

What is a blind spot? A blind spot (or blindspot) is an area in a store where one can't be spotted by cameras, and often times has little amounts of people in the area. Blind spots are often used to conceal merchandise, detag items or load up for a walkout. Blind spots can be extremely beneficial if you must conceal any amount of merchandise.

How do! find blind spots? Remember this one simple rule:

• If you can see a camera, assume the camera can see you.

Follow this rule to find blind spots. However, do not go around looking at the ceiling and looking at every camera, because if an employee happens to be watching the cameras or you, you're going to stand out and they are going to watch you very closely until you leave.

This doesn't mean you can't scan the ceiling however; if you must, scan it subtly. This means do not point your head directly at the ceiling (or wherever your cameras might be). Instead, move your eyes to look at the ceiling, or use your peripheral vision. If you must gain leverage to look for cameras, tilt your head slightly, just enough to be able to see, but not so much that you're staring at the ceiling.

If you can't find a blind spot in a store within a few minutes, it's not worth strolling the store for half an hour looking for an isolated corner of the store to conceal something that you could probably unsuspiciously pocket. Blind spots don't always have to be used. That being said, if you can't find one, then turn your back to any cameras, and just conceal or load up. You're essentially creating a blind spot. But if you're concealing or loading up high amounts of items, this shouldn't be attempted unless you can guarantee you have a 10 second window per item.

In the unlikely event your store has no cameras then your entire store will act as a blind spot. See below.

How do I use blind spots? If you've managed to find a spot where you can't see any cameras, that's good. Now the only thing that can possibly spot you is other people.

lf there's people in your spot, you're going to want to wait until they leave, assuming you have merchandise in your hand or cart. You can act like a regular shopper there, or leave until they're gone. If you choose to leave the aisle, you may be able to find another spot, but customers should be out of your spot within a few minutes, so it may not be worth it. Be cautious around everybody, and assume any person could report you or try being the good guy and stop you, especially if it's an employee.

lf your spot is clear of people, and you know that you can't see any cameras, this would be your prime opportunity to start concealing, detagging, or loading up for a walkout; you just need to be very aware of anyone coming towards or into your aisle, and stop what you're doing if you feel like or know someone is coming.

[The pfd I copied this from ends here, I don't know if the missing page holds any valuable information.]

This is basically just a cleaned up version of the Raddle Shoplifting Guide

Image description:

Meme using the "my parents at age X" template.

First part is "MY PARENTS AT 25" as a caption with a women saying "I think we should buy a house" and a man saying "sounds like a good investment"

Second part is "ME AT 25" as a caption with a men saying "If I shoplift then I won't have to pay for food"

Image description:

Photo of old or abandoned building, spray painted text "hey, will u shoplift with me?" and cute character in black, pink and yellow.

photo by @[email protected]

Image description:

Dialog in white bold text on black background. Cashier at Walmart: "That'll be $168.10." Me: "Give me my stuff back I'm going to self checkout."

Image Description:

Tweet from "spooky Space" with the handle @2kspaced

Gen Z be like "IF YOU CANT TIP DON'T EAT OUT" and then shoplift

Image description:

Meme with the "is for me?" image macro that combines the shy emoji and the Two Fingers Touching emoji, captioned with "Is for me?". Above the meme the caption is "When I see a small item with a printed barcode"

Image description:

An image of an article by the Wall Street Journal. A person is taking eggs from a shelf in a grocery store. The article title originally said "to save money, maybe you should skip breakfast" but it has been edited to say "to save money, maybe you should steal breakfast".

Based on https://www.wsj.com/livecoverage/cpi-report-today-january-2023-inflation/card/to-save-money-maybe-you-should-skip-breakfast-fSd6mz0miaAPhUFb2jgy

Before: A Beginner's Guide to Shoplifting

Are you confident enough to step your game up? If so, then I, u/thief, am here to help you out. In this guide, we will be expanding on the methods you can use against stores with a bit more security than maybe the dollar store you've been taking packs of gum from for the past couple of weeks.

Before you think about stepping it up, there are some things you should ask yourself.

• Are you Stealing things like a pro, not showing any obvious signs of nervousness?
• Have you completed more than 3 lifts, giving yourself the experience you require to move up in skill?
• Have you gotten away clean every time?
• Do you still think this is the direction you want to head in life?

If you answered ‘Yes ' to all four questions above, then you might just be ready to step it up. Let's get into the basics.

1. The Basics
2. Planning
3. Going In
4. The Lift
5. Expanding on Methods

1. The Basics

Well, before we dive into planning your next lift, or next store to hit, let's just make ourselves familiar with the definition of intermediate when it comes to shoplifting.

Here's what I would suggest completing before you start lifting more. All of these will ensure you have the skill and experience to hit harder later:

• Complete 3 or more lifts totaling at least $25

• Never have been caught

• Act professionally when lifting and have confidence in your abilities

So that seems easy enough. Do you meet every single criteria? Then you're ready. Those are the basics. Let's head into planning your bigger lifts.

Intermediate does not include lifting tagged items, that should only be attempted by the advanced and professionals that we'll get into in the next few guides. Never attempt lifting a tagged item until you're an advanced shoplifter.

2. Planning

Do you remember when you planned your first store? You could have either followed the guide I wrote, or maybe you just thought "Hey, I think I'm gonna steal from this store I'm in/going to right now."

Well, this time it may be more difficult to choose a store. We have to familiarize ourselves with the definition of an intermediate/medium difficulty store.

What would be classified as an intermediate store? A medium difficulty store would be one with security features, although moderate or minimum in amounts. I would suggest taking notes from the Master List(see here, very outdated) and choosing a store with a score of 4/10 or below.

An example store might be one with cameras in minimal amounts, tagged items in moderation, or scanners at the entrance, as these are all security features. Only lift from retailers. Do not lift from mom/pop stores. Dickhead move.

Don't worry. I will teach you how to work around these to make sure you make a clean getaway.

Well, now it's time to decide a store. Maybe it's one you've been at before, maybe it's not. If it is one you've been at, remember the security features. If you've never been to the store, look for it in the Master List. If it's not on there, do not attempt it as it may be actually supremely difficult to hit.

Plan out a date and time. Yes, we're doing this just like your first lift, because every lift should be planned, as security in many stores fluctuate. Maybe you're feeling confident enough to go right after you read through this. That's alright. Maybe you want to wait a week to gain that confidence. That is also alright. Pace yourself so you don't display erratic behavior. Only go when you're feeling confident in your abilities.

Plan what item you want. And make sure it's something you can take use of. Don't go into a store looking around because you will probably be in too long and that will be suspicious. Make sure it's concealable, and an item you don't think will be tagged with a security tag.

Research, research, research. Do not hit a store you do not know the security details of. Very dangerous and stupid move. Always research the store before going in before you get caught.

If you cannot find any information on your store, it's not a bad idea to do some recon before attempting a lift if you really want something there that bad. Go into the store and act like a regular shopper, notice the scanners, take note of how many cameras there are, look for tags on your item, but do not lift it right then and there unless you can confirm there's too little security measures for you to get caught.

By that I mean very minimal cameras, no tags and scanners. If all 3 of those sound like your store, then you're golden. If not, hold off and lift a different time. This is to keep you safe.

Once you've decided and researched, go to step 3.

3. Going In

Hey, it's the day of your first medium difficulty lift. You're going to want to follow the same procedure as the first lift you've ever planned:

• Dress nicely. This one's new, but important. Don't go in with a whole ass suit, but don't go dressed like someone who lives out on the street (if possible). Dress like a regular well-prepared civilian. Dress appropriate to the weather.

• Go to the store. Obviously.

• Have confidence and act normal.

Okay, so you've just stepped into the store. Remember; do not act nervous, act like a normal shopper. Greet everyone you make eye contact with a friendly smile, or a wave, and keep it pushing. If an employee asks if you need help, respectfully decline. Remember, don't power walk toward the item you want, but don't walk slow enough for everyone to know your face, but don't be in a rush.

Past this point you're probably scanning the store for all the security features. If you're walking around the store and looking at every single camera dangling from the ceiling you're going to be treated no differently than someone who acts very nervous and conceals in front of cameras and all that kind of unprofessional stuff. Especially if someone happens to be monitoring the cameras and witnesses you making direct eye contact with every fucking dome in the store and decides to watch you.

So don't. You should only look at cameras with your peripheral vision, maybe out of the corner of your eye.

Well, you're at the aisle of what you want now. You're looking it right in the eyes, and you're about to walk out with it. Well, ask yourself these questions:

• Is it concealable?

• Are no tags visible anywhere on the item?

If your answer is yes to the above two questions, then you're golden, because other methods such as booster bags should only be attempted by the advanced who know their state laws and are professional enough to go undetected/under the radar.

4. The Lift

Okay, so you're probably familiar with how this goes down. You take the item, pocket it and leave, right? Not so fast.

Make sure you've fully examined the item before concealing. No tags, right? (Barcodes are not tags.) Is it not too large to conceal without making a massive bulge in your clothing or bag? If not, alright, your item is good.

Make sure there's no one in your aisle, or any employees nearby. Make sure to take note of any cameras in your aisle, and if there is, be prepared to turn your back to it. Your body will essentially act as a blind spot, which we will dive further into at step 5.

Well, conceal. Or put the item in your bag, if you brought one, and be quick, but don't look suspicious. If you took use of a blind spot, you're already getting more skilled. If you would like to learn how to use blind spots, refer to this guide.

The item is now yours. Now repeat what you've learned from your beginner moments.

Walk out of the store with confidence. Flash a smile to employees and customers. Point finger guns! Okay, maybe no finger guns because that's being too confident, and weird.

Get to the exit. Then leave. And now you're free. That wasn't too bad, was it? Didn't think so. Good job. You've just completed your first intermediate lift. Celebrate, and take use of your new prized possession. Repeat as often as you want, but don't hit the same store constantly.

5. Expanding on Methods

Some methods you can use as an intermediate shoplifter are things such as blind spots and the use of bags.

• Blind spots are places in a store that are hidden from cameras and potentially other people when the moment is right. You can take use of these greatly, and I suggest you do. Read this guide on how to find and use blind spots.

• If you want to, you can take use of bags for big lifts. This can include things such as a personal handbag, purse, or maybe a backpack if it's the right kind of store. Backpacks are usually suspicious however, and you may just be watched, but it's not completely ruled out. NEVER use very odd things you wouldn't typically take into a store such as a briefcase or duffel bag. That will only make you be watched closer.

Thank you for reading, I hope this helped. Stay safe!

Next: An Advanced Guide to Shoplifting (TODO)

This is basically just a cleaned up version of the Raddle Shoplifting Guide