The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/DeliciousPersimmon80 on 2024-12-27 13:05:42.

The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/sweedish_fishy on 2024-12-27 13:00:20.

The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/UnnecessaryStep on 2024-12-27 12:55:42.

The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/chase98584 on 2024-12-27 12:41:39.

The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/Inpur3D on 2024-12-27 12:34:15.

Hello everyone,

Unfortunately, I don't really know what to do and I hope to find help here.

At the beginning of October, I purchased a 3D scanner directly from Creality on eBay. After Creality first gave me an allegedly incorrect tracking number, and after I inquired again, I received a tracking number which, according to the tracking, shows that the package was successfully delivered two days earlier by DPD.

However, I was not at home at the specified time on that day, so I could not have accepted the package. I thought I should report this to eBay. A case was opened, but then it was closed again, with the justification that the package was delivered according to the tracking. I was asked to contact Creality as they would initiate a trace through DPD. So, I contacted Creality.

Since then, I have only received responses for almost three months stating that they really shipped the package and that I should contact DPD. However, I have already done that, and they clearly pointed out that they can only initiate a trace if Creality contacts them and states that I haven't received the package yet.

So, I contacted Creality again, and they claimed for several weeks that they had written to DPD. As I became suspicious after several weeks, I asked DPD about the status of the trace, and DPD responded that the sender had not contacted them at all. After further messages to Creality, I only received the response: "We really shipped the package. Please contact the logistics company."

Any mention from my side that only the sender can initiate a trace is completely ignored. This situation has now reached the point where I had to file a police report because I have paid 630 Euros without receiving the item.

Has anyone had similar experiences and perhaps found a solution?

I would appreciate any help. This will definitely be my last purchase from Creality.

The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/gegeLaPoutre on 2024-12-27 12:31:00.

The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/S0UPSLAYER on 2024-12-27 12:25:03.

The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/FriendlyAd8045 on 2024-12-27 12:23:45.

The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/Flat_Let_9017 on 2024-12-27 12:18:54.

Hi everyone,

I’m looking for advice on the best way to handle filament changes in SuperSlicer. There’s a built-in feature that allows you to print with different filament colors using the same nozzle by pausing the print at a specific layer for a manual filament change.

Specifically, when I change filament, I want to:

1. Set a different nozzle temperature for the new filament.
2. Adjust the pressure advance to match the new filament.
3. Adjust the extrusion multiplier (EM) for better results.

My Questions:

1. Does SuperSlicer have a built-in function to handle these changes automatically during a filament swap?
2. Should I use the Custom G-code option to set these parameters, or is it better to manually edit the sliced G-code file afterward?

What I’ve Tried:

When I select the filament change feature in SuperSlicer, I see three options:

• Add color change (M600): This pauses the print and lets you swap filament.
• Add pause: A simple pause without other settings.
• Add custom G-code: This allows me to add specific G-code commands.

I’m considering skipping the default M600 and instead using the Custom G-code option to directly specify the nozzle temperature, pressure advance, and extrusion multiplier for the new filament.

The Problem:

I’m not sure which approach is best. I’m also not confident in manually editing the sliced G-code file, as reviewing each line is beyond my current skills. I’d like to avoid potential errors and ensure the settings are applied properly for a smooth and successful print.The Problem:I’m not sure which approach is best. I’m also not confident in manually editing the sliced G-code file, as reviewing each line is beyond my current skills. I’d like to avoid potential errors and ensure the settings are applied properly for a smooth and successful print.

I’d love to hear how others have handled similar situations or if there’s a better workflow for achieving this in SuperSlicer. Thanks in advance for your help! 😊

The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/xbepox on 2024-12-27 12:08:47.

The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/Sweaty_Bug_3968 on 2024-12-27 12:02:56.

Does anyone know of a D30 type filament?

The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/pah2809 on 2024-12-27 12:00:54.

Hey hope you're all good!

I've currently got an ender 3 I've been using for about a year.

I'm looking to upgrade, don't have a massive budget.

I'm mainly looking for faster and less hassle trying to get good prints.

I've seen people mentioning the elegoo and bambu labs.

What would you recommend? The Neptune 4 looks good value.

Thanks,

Phil

The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/epicly69 on 2024-12-27 11:49:40.

I recently got given a mankati fullacale Xt printer but the nozzle is cactus. It's 0.4mm and uses 3mm filament and screws onto the extruder with m6 thread. The heating element attaches to the smooth part of the nozzle. I can't find any replacements online since mankati got bought out by another company, is there anywhere I can get a replacement, or alternatively is there a nozzle from another printer I can use?

The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/Amusedto on 2024-12-27 11:22:23.

Idk if this is my Printer or its Cura g.code issue but I've always noticed this excessive travel with any print and It starts to print then go back to the corner print again and then do the same thing for each little print this has honestly ruined a lot of prints i have made because the way it accelerates itll make the extruder belt or motor like get stuck then it skip and then be off track to the print and start printing unaligned. With this too ive also thought about how much print time over the last like 2 years ive wasted on print time But i then figured out what it was and it doesnt make any sense to me that the extra travel MAKES IT FASTER then when its turned OFF it takes almost an hour how does this make sense and ive always noticed it with almost every print as you can see in the video it prints out fine then it all of a sudden happens and then if you watch to the end itll even switch sides of ends at which it like returns too then prints a small part and then back to X location so if i keep the setting on itll take an hour less but risks ruining the print but if on then i waste an hour on what seems to be just a error because it uses the same value and weight not evil .00 of a decimal changes i just dont understand

THIS IS HAPPENS WHEH I TURN OFF COMBING

With it turned Off 3 HOURS

With it turned on 2 Hours Like how

https://reddit.com/link/1hmlj14/video/evdp50n4269e1/player

FYI I DID SPEED UP AND SLOW DOWN THE VIDEO

The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/krzakpl on 2024-12-27 11:17:06.

The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/gamertuts on 2024-12-27 11:14:41.

The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/marshmellobacon on 2024-12-27 04:47:50.

The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/Ok-Drink750 on 2024-12-26 22:27:08.

The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/TomTomXD1234 on 2024-12-26 20:52:43.

The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/KingJM27 on 2024-12-26 20:22:56.

The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/AudienceLumpy6580 on 2024-12-26 19:49:23.

The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/Amphisbaena1 on 2024-12-26 19:00:25.

The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/Specialist-Curve-444 on 2024-12-26 18:25:15.

The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/ericthepoolboy on 2024-12-26 18:06:23.

The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/FlavorBlastedCheerio on 2024-12-26 17:32:16.