this post was submitted on 06 Jan 2025
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I've been using HA for a while; having my home just "do things" for me without asking is fantastic. My lights turn on to exactly the levels I want when I enter a room, my grass and my plants get watered automatically, heating and cooling happens only when it needs to. There are lots of benefits. Plus, it's just a fun hobby.

One thing I didn't expect, though, is all the interesting things you can learn when you have sensors monitoring different aspects of you home or the environment.

  • I can always tell when someone is playing games or streaming video (provided they're transcoding the video) from one of my servers. There's a very significant spike in temperature in my server room, not to mention the increased power draw.
  • I have mmWave sensors in an out-building that randomly trigger at night, even though there's nobody there. Mice, maybe?
  • Outdoor temperatures always go up when it's raining. It's always felt this way, but now it's confirmed.
  • My electrical system always drops in voltage around 8AM. Power usage in my house remains constant, so maybe more demand on the grid when people are getting ready for work?
  • I have a few different animals that like to visit my property. They set off my motion sensors, and my cameras catch them on video. Sometimes I give them names.
  • A single person is enough to raise the temperature in an enclosed room. Spikes in temperature and humidity correspond with motion sensors being triggered.
  • Watering a lawn takes a lot more water than you might expect. I didn't realize just how much until I saw exactly how many gallons I was using. Fortunately, I irrigate with stored rain water, but it would make me think twice about wasting city water to maintain a lawn.
  • Traditional tank-style water heaters waste a lot of heat. My utility closet with my water heater is always several degrees hotter than the surrounding space.

What have you discovered as a result of your home automation? While the things I mentioned might not be particular useful, they're definitely interesting, at least to me.

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[–] [email protected] 20 points 3 days ago (1 children)

My electrical system always drops in voltage around 8AM. Power usage in my house remains constant, so maybe more demand on the grid when people are getting ready for work?

If it turns into a problem I wonder if you report that to your power provider they can investigate it. I assume it isn't much of a drop though 240v to 210v ish drop.

We had a UPS that would report under voltage every winter at a remote radio tower. We sent the info to the power company and a few months later found the issue and we never got an alert again.

[–] [email protected] 5 points 2 days ago (1 children)

I assume it isn't much of a drop though 240v to 210v ish drop.

If you had that big of a drop, it would likely have already caused the local power grid to trip and turn off. That hardware is not designed to run at a very large frequency differential from normal, and while 30v might not sound like a lot, it's still enough to massively change the Hz of the AC.

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[–] [email protected] 21 points 3 days ago* (last edited 3 days ago) (3 children)

My old furnace was hilariously oversized for the house.

One of the nifty things about smart thermostats like Ecobees is that you can pull usage data from their web portal. I grabbed a CSV file covering a cold snap last year that reached a 100-year record low, and using Excel I summed up the total heat output while we were at that low.

The furnace was only running 50% of the time, even when it was with a couple degrees of as cold as it's ever been where I live.

Needless to say, when I got a new system installed I made sure it was more properly sized, and given that I had a convenient empirical measurement of exactly how many btus I actually needed in the worst case as scenario, that was easily done.

[–] [email protected] 4 points 2 days ago (1 children)

Not sure if you got this idea from Technology Connections but he recently didn a video using this exact premise.

I checked HA and found that A) my furnace fan is likely dying as the furnace overheats and power cycles frequently and B) despite the overheating, or furnace has only run at most 25% of the day during the coldest temps we've gotten this winter (which has been mild and only down into the low 30s). I think if/when we replace the furnace we can safely cut the BTU rating down while still maintaining our desired temperature.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 2 days ago

I'd been planning for a new HVAC system for a while when that video came out, and it gave me the idea to cross-check the thermostat data with the Manual J calc I'd already done. They were in general agreement, though the Manual J block load was more conservative than empirical data for a design day.

In your case, since you don't have data from a healthy system on a representative heating design day, I'd suggest using a web tool like CoolCalc to simply calculate an approximate Manual J total heating and cooling load, and use that to guide your choices.

[–] [email protected] 10 points 3 days ago (5 children)

Having an oversized furnace really isn't a bad thing, and only having it run half the time sounds like a good thing to me.

[–] [email protected] 22 points 3 days ago

A little headroom ain't bad, but it had three times the required heating capacity for my area's "design day" low, which meant that for most of the winter it was kicking on for maybe 5-10 minutes per hour and then leaving massive cold spots in the house, because the thermostat was smack in the middle and all the walls were bleeding heat.

My new heat pump is just about 2x the design day heat requirement, but that also means it's got capacity to handle extreme lows without resorting to resistance heat, and in any case it's fully modulating so the house has stayed quite comfortable so far.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 2 days ago

Evcept you spend more on it for no reason

[–] [email protected] 4 points 3 days ago (2 children)

That was in a worst case scenario though. I’d expect my furnace to reach closer to 80% duty cycle in a once in a lifetime cold front.

[–] [email protected] 6 points 2 days ago (1 children)

It's better to have it max out in a 100 year cold snap, as they don't happen too often, and it's ok to drop a few degrees when that happens. Much more important to save money on your heat pump investment than spend thousands worrying about weather that never happens.

Technology Connections video about this problem:

https://youtu.be/DTsQjiPlksA

[–] [email protected] 3 points 2 days ago (1 children)

I thought working 100% for hours on end wasn’t recommended for a residential unit. Love me a Technology Connections episode, thanks!

[–] [email protected] 3 points 2 days ago

yeah, I could be wrong, but that was the takeaway I got from the video, yeah. I have district heating so I don't have first hand experience.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 3 days ago (1 children)

Even 100% on the coldest day is not per se an issue provided additional heat can be used. Space heaters, gas fire places, and baking being big ones.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 2 days ago

Well, if cheating is allowed…

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[–] [email protected] 4 points 3 days ago (3 children)

One of the nifty things about smart thermostats like Ecobees is that you can pull usage data from their web portal.

Ecobee also let's you connect over HomeKit and allows you to control when the internet is out 😉at my old house I actually blocked the mac address for non internal and just had HA automatons take care of the rest.

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[–] [email protected] 16 points 3 days ago* (last edited 3 days ago) (2 children)

Most recently I discovered my house naturally has one of those "the sun will shine exactly here at one time of the year" things going on, like a treasure hunting movie trope. A reflective mosaic hung on my neighbor's shed is in the right spot that, in late December, sun reflection causes a arc of sunshine to slowly sweep over and brighten up spots on my back porch for an hour or so.

I recently made an ESPHome based weather station that includes a LUX sensor. I was updating a lighting automation so it would turn on sooner during dark mornings using the new sensor and I noticed a daily spike in light. The neighbor put up that mosaic several years ago and it took a HA histogram for me to notice.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 3 days ago (3 children)

Did you use any established project for your weather station or just make it up for yourself? I've been interested in building an esphome weather station as well.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 2 days ago

I, too, have such an interest. One thing I ran across about two months ago that I thought was neat was a project for a DIY wind gauge with no moving parts.

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[–] [email protected] 6 points 3 days ago (2 children)

I never thought about temperature/humidity sensors! I know some gardeners that use them in various greenhouses, but that's interesting stuff. Is there anything yall've learned about the power efficiency of heating/cooling methods? Currently we're making a lot of baked goods and stews to keep the house warmer and more humid, but I don't have any data on actual power use changes.

[–] [email protected] 4 points 3 days ago

I've had a temp/humidity temperature in all house rooms for a few years now, and it's dead useful.

Balancing the radiators and TRVs so everything heats up evenly.

Spotting anomalies (top floor loses a lot more heat when the wind is blowing)

And setting the flow temperatures for the radiators, as I can see the rate of heating compared to outside temperatures.

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[–] [email protected] 3 points 3 days ago (3 children)

Wait, how do you make your smart bulbs turn off and on automatically when you enter/leave a room? I've been using them for years and I always have to manually trigger them with an app! And how are you measuring power usage?

[–] [email protected] 10 points 3 days ago* (last edited 3 days ago)
  1. Motion sensors. The mmWave are very sensitive but also expensive. Nice for rooms where you sit still or lie down for longer periods, such as an office or bed room. PIR sensors are the cheap ones, very useful for hallways, stairs, kitchen and toilets.
  2. Some smart plugs measure current. Innr has a nice zigbee smart plug with a physical button and monitoring for around €20.

FYI If you have a Zigbee bridge, you can just connect most zigbee devices to it and you are not tied to the app or devices of the bridge's brand.

[–] [email protected] 5 points 2 days ago (1 children)

You'll want to research "room presence" systems.

Here's one I've been looking at implementing for an example: https://espresense.com/

[–] [email protected] 3 points 2 days ago

If you go this route, you'll absolutely need mmWave sensors as regular PIR sensors only sense movement not presence and you'll experience lights shutting off when you're sitting too still in a room. I've considered setting this up a few times but want mmWave and PIR sensors with a lux sensor all-in-one and the market for this is extremely small. I think only some sketchy Tuya and the Everything Smart Home youtube channel have sensors like this but they're expensive and I just haven't pulled the trigger.

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[–] [email protected] 2 points 2 days ago (2 children)

Outdoor temperatures always go up when it's raining.

Are you saying the outside weather temperature rises when it starts to rain, or am I understanding that incorrectly?

[–] [email protected] 7 points 2 days ago

Depending on the location, but

  1. Often rain comes along for the ride on a warm front as it moves over the property (although cold fronts also carry rain)
  2. In winter, the rainclouds act as insulation and so rainy days are warmer than blue-sky days
[–] [email protected] 4 points 2 days ago (1 children)

It's probably rain clouds trapping heat from escaping into the atmosphere, and humid air equalizing the temp by sucking heat off of high heat capacity surfaces like rocks and cement, warming the air.

That's just my guess though. I have no relevant scientific expertise.

[–] [email protected] 4 points 2 days ago

Along a similar line, ground temp (~200mm deep) lags air temps by about 12 hours

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