this post was submitted on 22 Nov 2023
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[–] [email protected] 77 points 11 months ago (10 children)

Things to note about these:

  • Most models are 220V 30A. If you have an electrical already, you likely have everything you need here. If you have gas, you will need to run 10 AWG or 8 AWG wiring and install a new breaker. Depending on where you live, you'll likely need a permit and have your handy work inspected before putting the water heater to service. If you aren't sure when you'll need 10 AWG over 8 AWG, hire a professional.
  • The 120V 15A models are slower at heating water and do so for a smaller volume. These models you can plug right into the wall, but they are usually a bit slower at coming to temperature for the water and for smaller volume. There's a Rheem version that's plug-in and has something like a 80 gallon store. However, it is highly recommended for use only in warm climates and installed outside in a small enclosure. Basically if you don't live in Southern California, Texas, Florida and all the states that touch those states in between them, you shouldn't try using this.
  • Like all heat pumps, there is an air filter that you need to replace. Usually these devices have apps that will notify you when a filter is needing to be cleaned or replaced.
  • Also like all heat pumps, there's a fan motor that will make sound. Luckily, most heat pump water heaters attempt to minimize the sound. That said, it's not zero sound and nobody should be recommending that one of these things be installed in a room adjacent to a bedroom. I mean, this is one of those things that really depends on "how well do you tolerate noise?" But these things will produce a pretty consistent hum.
  • The act of cooling the air from these reduces the humidity in the air. So you must drain that water that is produced. I think this is one thing that catches most people off-guard about these. Most water heaters don't have a method for draining water because water around a water heater is usually a bad sign. So you do need to drain off the condensate. You can take a big bucket and collect the water to bail later, but how much water it'll produce is dependent on what the humidity is in your area. If you're in like Florida except something like a hint over a gallon of water per day. But most professional installations will install a drain line for you that leads to the outside, unless you're putting this thing like smack dab in the dead middle of your house and you're on a slab. That would obviously present a slightly higher challenge for that drain line installation.

But all that said, these things are super neato. It's just really important for people to have realistic expectations before installing one.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 11 months ago

We're doing a major bathroom remodel at the moment and as part of the project are planning to replace the 15 year old electric water heater that came with the house when we bought it. Heat pumps work by exchanging heat from the air around to the water in the tank, which means that in addition to reducing humidity they also put out cool air. Usually they are installed in a garage or basement where that doesn't matter as much, but we don't have a basement and putting it in the garage would require a lot more work in terms of plumbing and electrical work, so we're going to keep it where it is in the house but install vents that exchange air from the attic in the winter, then in the summer we can flip open the vents and cool/dehumidify our house.

They're expensive up front but there are federal tax credits through 2032 (I think) of up to 30% of the project cost ($2000 max) and on top of that our local electric company is offering rebates of $800 to replace an electric or gas heater with an air pump. So that will reduce the upfront cost by a pretty good amount.

The only thing I'm at all concerned about is the noise of the motor, but the heater won't be adjacent to any bedrooms so I don't think it'll be a big problem in any case.

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