A few weeks ago I posted about the trouble I had with 100% whole wheat pizza crust. I've been tweaking the recipe since then, so I think it's time for an update. The summary is that the most recent recipe works pretty well.. as long as I don't let the dough get over-proofed. Decent structure, crumb, and taste. The big innovation isn't too surprising: Adding vital wheat gluten to strengthen the dough.
The recipe for two NY-style pizzas: 562 grams home-milled white whole wheat flour, 370+ grams water, 120 grams ripe sourdough starter, 28 grams vital wheat gluten, 19 grams olive oil, 11 grams salt, and 6 grams sugar. Optional: Half a teaspoon each of onion and garlic powder. Knead, divide, 72 hour proof in the fridge, bring to room temp, shape, top, and bake (preheated to 550°F then switched to broil, baked 5 minutes on steel).
Pictured here: Kale, potato, red onion, and fennel seed.
My understanding is it's usually there for a few reasons: Increase yeast/starter activity and aide browning of the crust. Additionally, with 100% whole wheat in particular, it can balance out the bitterness of the wheat a bit.