this post was submitted on 22 Mar 2024
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I believe that it "thocks," from what I understand. It sounds also like it's kinda sandy, if you know what I mean. Not sure how to describe it. But yeah, I love this thing to death already.

Anyone else has one? And if so, which one? Which type?

I got a Nuphy 75 v2, for the record, just yesterday.

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[–] [email protected] 5 points 7 months ago (2 children)

witness this helix keyboard

Also, try out 20-25 g. Choc switches. MX switches don't go that light. It's pure bliss.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 7 months ago (1 children)

It's beautiful! What's that called?

I'm running 78g switches myself... wild to imagine taking it to the other extreme. Just whispering across the board.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 7 months ago (1 children)

This particular keeb is called Helix. There's also Sofle, Lily58, and other, and they are only different in whether the encoders are included and key layouts.

78g? scared

[–] [email protected] 3 points 7 months ago (1 children)

Sweet, thanks. When I decided I needed a split keeb the Lily58 made it on my short list. Ultimately went with a manuform instead though. Split keebs for life! How do you like the displays on yours? Always wondered if that was worth the spend.

Haha yeah I've always been a real brutish typer when I get into a flow and unleash the monke meat sticks monkey-typewriter

[–] [email protected] 3 points 7 months ago (1 children)

I actually didn't do anything fancy with displays, just what layer I'm currently on, but I am using the keeb in a way that I almost never even look at them. They do tell me if the keyboard is stuck (happens because of my soldering skill issue). The displays are very, very cheap, so it's hard to regret buying them.

monke meat sticks

"His typing power is immense, reading his comments makes you feel each keypress, each creak of the plastic, in the voices of ten..."

[–] [email protected] 2 points 7 months ago

"His typing power is immense, reading his comments makes you feel each keypress, each creak of the plastic, in the voices of ten..."

de-shivers

[–] [email protected] 2 points 7 months ago (1 children)

I raise you my Ferris Sweep with custom PCB and hand-dyed key caps, using Kailh Sunsets chocs. It's my daily driver. I use it for gaming, typing, and even writing code.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 7 months ago (1 children)

I actually designed my keyboard's PCB myself (very easy, just steal things from other keebs and follow manufacturer's constraints), so I won't show it here, but it's so cool, and it fits in the box in which the components were shipped in so I don't need to buy one lol

Keycaps are default Kailh, they are flat and allow Choc spacing, it is possible to glide the finger over the keys (haven't come up with cool ideas on how to use this tho), and switches are 25g., which really is bliss that I recommend to everyone

[–] [email protected] 2 points 7 months ago* (last edited 7 months ago) (1 children)

I have some 35?gram linears I eventually wanna stuff into an a.dux if I ever get around to making it. I might eventually make a clone of my Sweep and put 25g in it for longer session typing unless I end up liking splay, then the next logical path is designing something between an a.dux and a Sweep lol.

I'd like to make one of the sub 35% boards like the hummingbird some day but idk how I'd go about using it and honestly soldering diodes scares me rofl .

[–] [email protected] 2 points 7 months ago (1 children)

Small keyboards are cramped, and require more complex layouts, so I have 64 keys and zero issues :)

Soldering diodes - you need tweezers, which are by default closed. Grab a diode with tweezers (you won't need to put pressure on it because normally-closed tweezers), orient it (it'll have some indication of the direction, as should the footprint where it'll go), solder one pad, solder the other one. Test the diodes afterwards. A bit of practice with desoldering and resoldering some junk PCBs will help to understand how it feels. The soldering issues I had were primarily with pins on the controller disconnecting sporadically (but that is because the pins were shit and so would work properly only if I initially did everything correctly, and I didn't, so I had to resolder that two times) and LEDs, for which I have learned that I needed to fully convince the solder to cover the pad. Diodes are much more robust than LEDs.

Through-hole is very easy, put them in, bend the legs a bit, solder them, cut the excess off. Again, a bit of practice will be good. There's even training kits available online, but I dunno how it's for other countries.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 7 months ago

I can def handle through-hole. It's the SMD ones I feel like would be my downfall. At this point I'd probably rather pay someoe to build anything that requires diodes, for me. Part of why I gravitated towards Ferris Sweep and other small no frills boards is because they are really simple to build. I'd like something like a Lily58 some day for gaming through. I can game on 34 keys but I have to get creative lol.