Home Theater

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For audio visual enthusiasts who want to bring an immersive experience into their homes.

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26
 
 
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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/africahightech on 2023-08-18 10:55:40+00:00.


My problem:

I have a denon AVR with 5.1 set-up which is mainly used with a TV on a north facing wall. I also occasionally use a projector for movie nights on an east facing wall in the same room - I'd like to use my amp/speaker set up with the projector.

The speaker locations (except the center) all align up pretty well for both use cases, but obviously I then need to disconnect / reconnect the speakers physically so that fronts/rears are coming from the correct location. I'm ok with sacraficing the centre to the L/R fronts for the projector use.

Ideally I'd like a way to be able to swap these without having to pull the AVR out and swap cables everytime I want a movie night.

Is there an amp that would let me do this virtually? Bonus points if there are profiles or something similar to make switching set-ups even faster.

Or are there any other solutions that would save me buying a new amp, or wireless speakers?

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Scroglefrollempth on 2023-08-18 10:50:55+00:00.


Hey, bought a Panasonic LZ1500 OLED about a week and a half ago, been loving it until today.

Even with pixel orbiter off, suddenly there is a centimetre black bar across the bottom no matter what the tv is doing.

The image has been moved up leaving a black bar at the bottom, it also has moved the top of the image off the screen.

For example, on HDMI one, there is a black bar below the task bar now, looks horrible.

That small black bar is on Netflix, the menus, TV channels - everything.

Remember, even with pixel orbiter off and the line is bigger than one or two pixels anyway.

Any ideas?

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Madasqez on 2023-08-18 10:42:00+00:00.


Hi everyone,

I have an “old” Bose Companion 3 system (2006) which still works very well. Right now I have it connected with my current tv via the AUX cable to the tv’s headphone port and it works like a charm.

However, I want to buy a new tv which doesn’t not have the headphones jack (or any other 3.5mm ports). I figured how to connect the Bose to the tv via the digital audio port (using a converter) but, by doing this, I can’t change the volume with the remote and every singe time I have to get up and adjust the volume through the pod.

Does anyone know if there is a way how to somehow bypass the pod or any other way to still somehow be able to use a remote to adjust the volume?

Thanks a lot!

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/trigger2k20 on 2023-08-18 10:26:14+00:00.


I purchased a new property which I will be renovating when I move in. The living room will be spacious and open planned with the kitchen and dining room. However, I have a problem, the 5.1.2 Focal Evo setup I have will not be viable as the two surrounds have nothing to be mounted on, as it will be an open space behind the sofas which will lead into the kitchen.

I do know about speaker stands or even purchasing floor standing speakers but my children are too young and cannot be tamed, theres no concept of brakes when they run, so this will definitely be knocked over.

I have looked at the Sony HT-A9 as I can place this around the living room on shelves or at the back of the kitchen which points to the rear of the living room sofa, but I'm worried about the range and quality, especially coming from my existing setup.

I have also looked into soundbars which seems more viable as it would be mounted underneath the wall mounted tv, out of the reach of my kids.

I would like to know how other here people that have/had similar situations approached this scenario.

Thanks!

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/sekret_identity on 2023-08-18 09:14:18+00:00.


Hello we have a Samsung lifestyle projector and am looking for a pop up 100” screen to sit on top of an entertainment unit to pair with it.

Can anyone suggest something not too expensive and not too cheap and nasty ?

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/lucax55 on 2023-08-18 09:03:53+00:00.


Hello,

Perhaps a silly question, but I have a small soundbar with 30W internal speakers connected to the tv via optical or a headphone jack.

My TV, panasonic 48 inch OLED, also has 30W speakers on them, but these support Dolby Atmos and can simulate surround sound.

Which would generally give me better sound overall? I have tried listening myself but cannot come to a solid conclusion. I ask because the soundbar is definitely on the lowest end. Thanks! :)

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/cam94z28 on 2023-08-18 08:05:01+00:00.


I just picked up this receiver to replace my ancient H&K AVR130, which doesn't even have HDMI ports. I have a somewhat crappy sub which sounded better on my last receiver crossed over closer the internal crossover point of my towers, which is 40hz. On this new receiver, I can't seem to get the "LPF of LFE" setting to go below 80hz.

I understand that this is a THX certified receiver and 80hz is the THX standard, but my sub sounds a bit boomy at that setting. Is there any way to get a lower crossover point?

Also one other thing. Music (deezer on the built in "NET" input) is plenty loud at lower volumes, and sounds great on the "Pure Audio" setting, but when I play various movies, I don't get decent output until 60+ on the volume. I have cycled through the various surround modes without much change. It then gets louder pretty quick with each click of the volume. I'm not even running very many channels. I'm at a 3.1 system until my new rears show up.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Pizzazz_Music on 2023-08-17 22:23:36+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/marketjedi on 2023-08-17 21:31:19+00:00.


So excited to upgrade my receiver from a 17 yr old DENON 2805 to a 3800H- Everything is solid but my SVS bass speaker isn't driving heavy as it was with the older receiver.. I have increased the input to max and turn up the option subwoofer setting but still nowhere heavy as the older unit.

Any help would be appreciated

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Random-Posterer on 2023-08-17 20:37:32+00:00.


I got a Onkyo 6050 and a QN90B and already having issues with sound randomly stop working with anynet+ (HMDI CEC). The HDMI 3 port on my tv is earc. If I turn CEC off, my audio just switches to the TV. Is there a way I can just avoid CEC all together and still get sound from my AVR/speakers

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Endertech74 on 2023-08-17 20:25:40+00:00.


I’m volunteering with a non-profit farm that wants to be able to show some football games during their fall fest activities. They have a big barn that’s partially open, and are asking for my help setting up the tech/configuration.

I’m new to anything home theater, but figured this would be a good place to start. They have a very small budget ($500) for the whole thing, so I’m really looking for suggestions on a minimum viable product for such a space.

Considering either a budget projector and a cheap screen, or a mid-large LED tv.

I can answer any questions that would make this easier. Thank you!

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Murf5 on 2023-08-17 18:40:38+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/HowTheTablesTurns on 2023-08-17 18:38:10+00:00.


Just broke in my .4 ceiling atmos and tested out this scene after having it recommended to me and HOLY CRAP was the sound mixing incredible, particularly for atmos, which is horribly underutilized by most content. Literally got chills for 5 minutes.

For anyone who has not tried this scene out on their atmos, I promise you it is worth the 6 dollar purchase to show off your system to anyone

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/puppymaster79 on 2023-08-17 18:09:35+00:00.


[I'm no audiophile and also tried searching prior threads so please have grace if I've missed anything.]

I'm setting up a home theatre room that is 3,240 cubic feet (20ft x 18ft x 9ft) - would use to watch movies and tv, no plans for just music. Looking at a 5.0.2 speaker set that does not come with a subwoofer. I need to stay around $500 for my sub spend. I found a room calculator that says I should have 2x 12" subs. My research is pointing to the RSL Speedwoofer 10S MKII. Seems from YouTube and reddit threads that the RSL Speedwoofer 10S MKII (10") likely outperforms the SVS SB-1000 Pro (12") (?).

First question: can a 10" sub outperform a 12" in terms of output in a given space?

Second question: is the RSL Speedwoofer 10S the best bang for my buck?

Third question: would I need two RSL Speedwoofer 10S subs for this sized room?

Thanks for the assist.

PS - The RSL 12" version is a monster -- I don't have enough room space or the cash.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Mammoth_Thanks_7674 on 2023-08-17 17:45:32+00:00.


Looking to purchase a entry level 4k blu ray player and I noticed Sony lists their UBP-X800 has "High-Res Audio" and their x700 model does not. What is High Res-Audio? And what would I be missing with the X700? I would think a 4k Blu Ray/player would have good audio already.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/RTA5 on 2023-08-17 17:27:14+00:00.


Hello -

I'm working on my new setup that includes:

  • Sony 65" OLED (A80CL)
  • Denon AVR-X1700H
  • Nvidia Shield TV Pro
  • Klipsch RP-440D SB

I know I need to connect the eARC HDMI from the TV (HDMI3) to the receiver on the eARC HDMI Out port, but does it matter if I plug the Nvidia Shield TV Pro to HDMI4 on the TV and tuck it behind the TV, or if I plug it into an HDMI port on the receiver? The TV has one extra 4k 120Hz port (HDMI4) beside the eARC port, so resolution & refresh rate should be fine either way.

I'm leaning towards plugging it into the receiver since that is where any future sources will have to go, but it would help spread out the power plugs if I put it behind the TV instead.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/jordan23ql on 2023-08-17 17:21:02+00:00.


Hi everyone! Moving to a new house this October and want to build my HT setup for the first time. Def tech D17, D11, D5C and Denon AVR-X3800H. Any suggestions for the subwoofer?. Is the receiver powerful enough to work with those speakers or an amp is needed? TIA , my budget is $2.5-3K and I located in the US.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Bwoah223 on 2023-08-17 16:11:26+00:00.


Hi all, I'm wondering what the bare minimum would be device-wise for a 5.1 surround setup? I am somewhat new to really diving into this. I always had a fairly cheap 2.1 setup but I'd like to put together a nice 5.1 setup.

Of course it would be at least 5 speakers and 1 sub, but I see people recommending amps, pre-amps, receivers, and I'm not sure where the minimum starts and where the upgrades begin with these things, hence the question.

In other words; what would I need to setup and connect 5 speakers and 1 sub to my television? And what would be nice additions to improve sound quality further beyond the minimum layout of devices.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Aeleis on 2023-08-18 06:34:31+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/TRIPMINE_Guy on 2023-08-18 06:16:26+00:00.


So I've been messing around with a crt monitor after only ever using lcds. This isn't a crt circle jerk post, but I wanted to talk about some things I have deduced from my experience using my crt and how it relates to how we percieve contrast. I have no knowledge on the intricacies of contrast and all that so please point out any flaws in my conclusions.

First off, in a dark room my crt seems to have a more vibrant image quality than my lcd even though my lcd should have higher contrast ratio, even on scenes with no dark. My theory as to why is that the eye is more capable of discerning colors when it is dark, and the opposite is that a brighter light reduces eyes ability to perceive color. We know ambient light does this to your tv, so why wouldn't the same also apply to the light output by our displays? So even though my crt has a lower contrast since it is dim enough my eye will perceive more colors than a brighter display that forces my eye to not

I decided to test my theory further by lowering my crt refresh rate to only 48hz which introduced a very noticeable flicker to the image and therefore meant there was even more darkness however, I perceived an even brighter image! (Sidenote, others on crt forums think I'm nuts because I actually prefer to watch stuff at 48hz now since the image looks even better in terms of color to me.) Now I cannot decide if the flickered image had a perceived higher contrast than the non-flickered image on my crt, but it is 100% perceived as brighter to my eye. I know it is not actually brighter because someone I talked to noticed this himself independently of me and measured the nits and said it was the same at any refresh rate.

These two things has led me to conclude that a higher nit display that raises the brightness level across the entire display is counterproductive to perceiving more colors and therefore higher nit displays aren't the end all in terms of color vibrancy.

Now hdr might seem to throw a wrench in my claim that higher nits are bad, but looking closer, hdr and my crt in a 48hz flicker mode is actually doing the same thing. That is, instead of just raising the light across the board of the entire scene, it is keeping the average light level of a scene lower while making parts of the scene brighter instead of the entire scene. However, in my 48hz crt the "reduced average scene brightness" is actually just my entire average light dropping due to the phosphors not being lit up as much in a second. While my "increased specular highlights" is actually the entire scene in comparison to the black between frame updates. Infact hdr will do it better since my method doesn't discriminate on what is selectively raised, but it is all selectively raised relative to the increased black frame.

Now there is something I don't understand, and that is that I've read people with oled have said black frame insertion reduces the color vibrancy of an oled which flies in the face of everything I have said. I'm not sure why this is, but I have found some studies that say that flickered light can have a higher perceived brightness than a static light, but only at certain flicker frequencies. It seems very fortunate, or perhaps unfortunate that my crt is in this range, but black frame insertion is not.

I don't have an oled yet to make a comparison so if anyone here has an oled and crt that's not worn out, if you want, try out a 48hz mode and compare sdr content and see how it compares on the two. Like I said, I'm not claiming crt has better colors than oled or anything, what I am claiming is I think image vibrancy should be tied to how humans perceive color, which a lot of which is relative to what light is in the room, instead of some objective measure like contrast, since like I said, my crt is more vibrant than my lcd to my eye, even though the contrast is objectively lower.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/denb0ne on 2023-08-18 05:13:56+00:00.


This is a tough one, I just upgraded my AVR to a Denon 4800h, if I put the TV on eARC mode I get irregular audio dropouts while watching TV in Dolby Surround and upmixers. This problem does not exist while using other content players like a console. (full.range Atmos, DS, DTS:X) So my first tgought maybe it's the Hdmi cable that is somehow doing this, I changed that and it still happens. If I have eARC support turned of the problem doesn't exist. So the way I see it it's either my LGs Sound board or a problem in the Denon 4800h, but it's new and it has not any problems on other channels. Anyone had similar experiences or an idea? (postet also in OLED community to look for help)

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/denb0ne on 2023-08-18 05:13:56+00:00.


This is a tough one, I just upgraded my AVR to a Denon 4800h, if I put the TV on eARC mode I get irregular audio dropouts while watching TV in Dolby Surround and upmixers. This problem does not exist while using other content players like a console. (full.range Atmos, DS, DTS:X) So my first tgought maybe it's the Hdmi cable that is somehow doing this, I changed that and it still happens. If I have eARC support turned of the problem doesn't exist. So the way I see it it's either my LGs Sound board or a problem in the Denon 4800h, but it's new and it has not any problems on other channels. Anyone had similar experiences or an idea? (postet also in OLED community to look for help)

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/GonzoBlue on 2023-08-18 04:35:58+00:00.


I got an old Sony 5.1 system and everything beside the sub are working great. The only problem is the sub isn't out putting any sound when plugged into the sub out. When i tested it with a USB 2.1 audio out it worked. I am using a Yamaha Rx-V495. The sub is a SSWS82

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/usaut on 2023-08-18 04:23:32+00:00.


Hi all,

I have a Q Acoustic 5.1 speaker system hooked up to a Yamaha RX-V6A receiver.

I’d love to buy and install several ceiling speaker to install throughout my house, and I’d like to have it hooked up to the Yamaha receiver so I can get the same audio throughout.

I know the Yamaha is a 7.2 system so I assume I could install at least 2 ceiling speakers to it as a second zone (keeping the current 5.1 system as zone 1), but what would be the best way to hook up, say, 4 or 6 ceiling speakers it?

Any advice would be most appreciated. And any recommendations for products sold in Australia would be even better!

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Dramatic-Opposite- on 2023-08-18 04:21:45+00:00.


As titles says… my system I currently have is as follows the Jamo Studio Series S 803 Compact 5.0 Home Theater System, a SONY X90J 75” TV, a SONY STR-DH790 A/V receiver, and SONY UBP-X700 player, and a SVS SB-1000 pro sealed sub woofer. I have a considerable budget but please be reasonable lol

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