Late to the party on this one, but Tutanota has been great for me. I prefer the fully encrypted storage. They recently put their prices up, though. It was €12 a year.
Selfhosted
A place to share alternatives to popular online services that can be self-hosted without giving up privacy or locking you into a service you don't control.
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Just switched to iCloud last week. Yes, it does catch-all (although it needs to be enabled through a checkbox in one of the settings menu). It also does sub-addressing / plus-addressing natively (no menu setting needed), which doesn’t seem to actually be documented but it works flawlessly for me.
I’ve been extremely happy with it so far. Pairing plus addressing with some of the filtering rules allows me to direct bulk mail to the right place automatically. For whatever reason, filtering rules can’t be done on iOS but need to be set through icloud.com (not sure if they can be set on macOS).
I’ve been using fast mail for about 6 months and have enjoyed it.
I bought a Synology disk station a few years ago that has faithfully served as a NAS, website host and email host. Only recurring thing I pay for now is the domain name and it works splendidly.