The original post: /r/diy by /u/Calabris on 2024-11-11 05:06:58.

So my floor in dining/living room are a bit bouncy. I wanted to run a pair of 2x10x20 glued and nailed together to make a 4x10x 20 with three posts under it support the floor better. Problem is I cannot get a 20ft boards into the crawlspace. Would a pair of 2x10x10 nailed and glued to make a 4x10x10 with two posts on either end and then another setup the same as the first spanning the 2nd 10 feet work just as well? So 20 ft supported with 4 posts instead of three. But two independent 10 ft spans instead of a single 20 ft span.

The original post: /r/diy by /u/PotahtoHead on 2024-11-11 05:25:32.

The original post: /r/diy by /u/ccsando on 2024-11-11 04:37:37.

The original post: /r/diy by /u/eat-lightning on 2024-11-11 02:38:53.

I just had some of the exterior brick replaced on my house, including those around this basement glass block window. Because I’m going to replace this window in the spring, I had the bricklayers *not* mortar the bricks to the sides of the window. So, the window is currently being held in place by old, existing mortar on its top and bottom. 

Because I’m not replacing this window until spring (probably April), today I stuffed caulk backer rod into the gaps on the sides to prevent drafts. Now, I want to keep moisture out. 

I’ve seen tapes like “Gorilla All Weather Outdoor Waterproof Duct Tape,” but will it be easy to remove from the glass blocks and brick in the spring? I’ve also considered using plain ol’ duct tape. Thoughts?

TLDR: Can anyone recommend a brand and/or type of tape I can use to seal this window to the brick until spring — when I will remove the window and install a new one.

https://preview.redd.it/uf8o5rr3q60e1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8a6e027872ef666cde21da12a90b1e6d94268f52

The original post: /r/diy by /u/Middle_Awareness_833 on 2024-11-11 02:07:24.

Hello!

I’m doing a DIY project to refinish some flooring and concrete seems to be the cheapest option for the space. I will be using a mesh tape to for the plywood seams, but I’m running into so many people saying different things.

Should I use some sort of compound over the mesh tape?

Should I seal the plywood to resist moisture? Sounds like most people just go right over with the feather cement?

Would I need to do a bonding treatment after I seal to make the cement hold better?

Help?! 🥹

The original post: /r/diy by /u/cl3arz3r0 on 2024-11-11 01:34:58.

The original post: /r/diy by /u/ProjectObjective on 2024-11-11 00:59:22.

HI all, I have bathroom remodel I am doing and the floor was quite wonky. This room was a porch that was enclosed long ago and it settled and the joists were in bad shape. Ultimately it was decided that the best thing to do was to tear out subfloor and full length sister the joist adjusting the sisters to proper level and fastening with a few structural screws. This worked quite well and the floor is significantly more level than it was, and we are going to put .75 inch advantech down. That being said, it certainly isn't perfect. Some of the original joists were twisted and screws sometimes have a mind of their own and even with a laser line we are only human so we do have some slightly high and low spots. Obviously I know shimming is an option but that might be easier said than done with the spots being a bit random and you might have a post that is foot long of a cereal bowl shape with a max discrepancy of and 8th of an inch. No easy way to make a shim for that. I will use gorilla glue on the joists before I put the advantech down and probably use 1.5 inch structural screws to fasten it and that might be enough but wanted to see what others thought. Maybe there is a product I can put on the joists other than gorilla glue that will not only bond but take care of any low spots? Maybe a tape? Any suggestions at all are appreciated.

The original post: /r/diy by /u/RealTange1 on 2024-11-11 00:26:46.

Hello team looking for input

I've got large flat rocks that make up homemade outdoor steps. The steps tend to shift or move and result in rocking back and forth when walking on.

Is there a product I can use under them like a loose fill that might lock in once reasonably level? Trying to avoid just concreting the steps as they are beautiful outdoor steps that look reasonably natural right now. Thanks

The original post: /r/diy by /u/nagyee on 2024-11-11 00:07:50.

https://preview.redd.it/h7qm3tb6y50e1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=99481faf3b87d16271f17b5b19daf34a12e8d243

My sister painted this glass piece and the purpose was that she wants to make it into a coffee table. Well, she wants me to do the frame and the lighting under it. I never done something like this. My simple idea was that frost the glass with a film and use led strips in a way so it's evenly illuminated then plug it into a battery that has a switch. Okay, maybe not that simple. She told me she wants to use a plastic piece to diffuse the light and put it under the glass. But then we need another plastic piece because the led has to face upward. So many questions...

I figured maybe others already made a table like this and willing to share their experience, so please help us out here.

The glass is 20x20 inched and 1/4 thick. The glass has to be easily removable for cleaning or repairing purposes.

I appreciate all help and thank you all.

The original post: /r/diy by /u/midnightsnipe on 2024-11-10 20:06:05.

The original post: /r/diy by /u/nancykind on 2024-11-10 17:03:15.

I'm not immediately replacing it, can I undo the hose connection at the dishwasher and leave the hose attached to nothing? Thanks.

The original post: /r/diy by /u/nvirntal5943 on 2024-11-10 16:51:45.

Ive been searching for an answer to this...Im hoping one of you can help me.

https://preview.redd.it/zmdfi3fms30e1.jpg?width=1884&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d251c6db192604e3995e07415104698ff2fa0518

I need to know what that strip of black material is. The left side is over my neighbors garage and the right is over my parents. Its the right side that I wish to replace, so that they match.

Any hints?

The original post: /r/diy by /u/mypa333 on 2024-11-10 15:42:45.

Hi all, I need help, please. I am renovating a house near the coast in Spain. It has a basement where the floor is just concrete and the walls are concrete blocks, part of the foundation. There is only a 1.5M door and 2-3 little air vents.

1. What materials could I use to load up the walls to look straight and livable? E.g. do I need a metal mesh? Any humidity materials?
2. What are the steps to ensure there is no high humidity, besides good ventilation?
3. Any idea how to turn a concrete floor into a smoother area without a pick axe and without raising it more than 3-5 cms? I don't need it perfectly straight.

Any examples would be much appreciated. Wish me luck with this projetc. It will be a back breaker.

The original post: /r/diy by /u/i_hate_usernames13 on 2024-11-10 14:11:31.

I have a standard 24v doorbell transformer but I removed it and now my doorbell is 5v. I want to install one of those nest or ring doorbells that need the 24v (no I'm not gonna do a battery version).

So the reason I have it on 5v is my ringer is an old school secondary phone ringer for a shop to be heard over other noises. So obviously it needed the special power and whatnot. It currently runs off a USB 5v power. Power the ringer via Black Magic Telephone Ringing Generator Square Wave.

I'm not entirely sure how a relay works but could I wire something up so there is 24v at the push button outside and when pushed that then trips a relay and causes the 5v to go to the ringer?

The original post: /r/diy by /u/Archjbald on 2024-11-10 13:27:40.

Hello,

I have a large window (about LxH : 4x3m / 12x10ft) that consists of several in my rented flat . At the top there are three fixations with small round holes. The window is stuck between two walls, which means I cannot easily pass through a long bar from either the left or the right. I would like to install light curtains and be able to open and close them completely. Also, I cannot drill holes in the walls or use any "destructive" solutions. What solutions would you use? I was thinking maybe a wire or an extendable rod, but I feel like the curtains would be stuck by the fixations, and I don't know how to hold the rods in the middle. Another solution would be to hang a fixation system on these fixations, but I don't know if the 3 fixations would be enough.

Thank you for your help!

PS: please let me know if you feel like this belongs to another subreddit

Schematic with the fixations in blue, walls on the side. The bottom panes are a bit opaque.

The original post: /r/diy by /u/Elegant_Ad_2357 on 2024-11-10 23:04:54.

About 2-3 years ago, I repainted everything in our bedroom including all of the trim, doors and baseboards. At the time, I sanded all of the trim, doors and baseboards down to the wood, primed with Stix primer and painted with a semi gloss. It’s held up wonderfully but I don’t like the color I chose. I’d like to repaint everything. If I do a light cleaning of the trim, doors and baseboards just to remove any dust and if I use the same type of paint I used last time, do I need to sand and prime everything again?

The original post: /r/diy by /u/JayReddt on 2024-11-10 22:52:44.

The original post: /r/diy by /u/ShadowKethry on 2024-11-10 22:51:07.

Hi everyone,

This is my first post here, and I wanted to share a project I’ve been working on: my homemade Corsi–Rosenthal Box, inspired by Alton Brown’s Good Eats approach to beef jerky. I’ve built a Gen 1 version using hot glue, and I’m in the planning stages for a Gen 2 with some design improvements.

For the initial setup, I used an edge-to-plate construction method. This approach keeps each filter symmetrical around the box’s center but doesn’t center each filter perfectly with the others or the whole structure. Edge-to-plate essentially means each part attaches on a flat edge, creating symmetry but not true central alignment.

In Gen 2, I’m planning to use an edge-to-edge design, where each filter will line up directly with the next one. This method creates a centered alignment, so each filter is centered in relation to the others and to the whole setup, providing more structural consistency.

Gen 2 Design Adjustments:

1. Center-Faced Cube Layout: Moving away from overlapping concentric cubes to a more centered cube design, allowing for greater stability and centralized airflow.
2. Layered Outer Walls with Corner Gap Supports: Planning outer layers with support gaps at the corners, creating slots that will let me single or double stack filters as needed.
3. Hinged Food Racks: Adding hinged racks in the center to support the jerky. This should make it easier to load and unload while keeping everything stable during the drying process.

Presently I am saving every cardboard slat, over 20x28x from shipping boxes to build my working materials. I could make it all from flat cardboard acting like sheet metal and box fram build, but I need to buy a drywall squared and a few other tools fro that.

I'm actually restarting my life and this is my first project build since I escaped hell in 2021. I get clean air and beef jerky as a reward for each generation of this home improvment. So it's hella fun.

Open to any suggestions or tips from those who’ve worked on similar projects—thanks for checking it out!

https://preview.redd.it/l27m18eyk50e1.jpg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=854d70d587ae14908fc0c391aa1b0f53319ed3ff

https://preview.redd.it/vnntm9eyk50e1.jpg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7605f43c9cc9ebfc5727859b0f0e402cb2e574d7

https://preview.redd.it/hjltpdeyk50e1.jpg?width=3060&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d2664b345319ffce010ffe2043acc97db979c5f4

https://preview.redd.it/1t1f3beyk50e1.jpg?width=3060&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3ba358593bb200657cb210ccf8e55bd2dc63719b

https://preview.redd.it/g3v639eyk50e1.jpg?width=3060&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=02d6adeaaadc888907c551908efe47717d815a17

https://preview.redd.it/ifu3x9eyk50e1.jpg?width=3060&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f0213a23b3d49c2b9c0849541c068373656cc9b0

The original post: /r/diy by /u/lscraig1968 on 2024-11-10 22:29:32.

The original post: /r/diy by /u/crayj36 on 2024-11-10 22:20:34.

The original post: /r/diy by /u/paradigmGT on 2024-11-10 22:07:57.

I am looking to install 4" LED recessed lighting in my vinyl soffits. However under the vinyl is the old wood soffit. I do not want to cut through these wood soffits, but this will leave me with a clearance issue to maybe fit the LED recessed lighting without it's built on metal junction box. Can I cut off the junction box and splice directly to the LED with Romex, and run the 14/2 Romex inside the vinyl soffit between the vinyl and the old wood soffit from light to light?

https://preview.redd.it/j41d84etd50e1.jpg?width=611&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3b8a60159bccefea96b88ba4b24f7d7d9230efb7

https://preview.redd.it/orz1z3etd50e1.jpg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d75c8ca85a9002c66fd2d928cecb3539e395c3fc

The original post: /r/diy by /u/solarbeholder on 2024-11-10 22:03:47.

Found a bunch of soil over this uneven concrete while fixing exterior threshold, explains why the wood sub sill completely rotted out.

Is it best to lay the concrete completely Level or at a slight slope to help the water drain?

Edit: Also Is my sub still wood sticking too far our?

https://imgur.com/a/M74w6L6

The original post: /r/diy by /u/VLioncourt on 2024-11-10 21:58:11.

The original post: /r/diy by /u/Pure_Substance_2905 on 2024-11-10 21:48:55.

The original post: /r/diy by /u/BossMafia on 2024-11-10 21:28:14.

Hi all. I've been fighting this annoying soft water hammer noise for a little while now. Not quite sure when it started, might have always been here since I bought the house 5 years ago. I marked the TLDR segment below.

There are two sinks in my master bathroom. When opening or closing any of the four taps, I hear three or four light pipe thudding noises. Like instead of the classic metal hammer hitting the pipes sound, it's more of a soft wooden mallet. Very rhythmic in nature. I installed water hammer arrestors on both supples of one of the sinks, which didn't change anything.

This past week I changed out the hot water tanks expansion tank and P&T valve after they had both failed. Not at the same time, I think the expansion tank failed a while ago and I just noticed it. After changing the P&T valve the sound went away...until I ran the shower in the master bathroom which led me to figure out that the noise is coming from somewhere in supply lines to the shower mixer.

If I close any combination of isolation valves to the mixer (hot, cold, or both), the hammer completely stops from all four sink taps. I've tried restraining the pipes with my hands to see if they're knocking against any wood in the wall, but nothing I really do there helps much. (I was hoping I could just shim some rubber somewhere if I could find it)

~~TLDR~~ (Title and.. )

I'm assuming the next step is to install some sort of water hammer mitigation on the shower supply lines, after the isolation valves, but to do that I'd have to cut the pipe and I've never been great at sweating copper. I see that this exists, but I have three questions:

1. Would I go to hell for using the sharkbite hammer arrestors?
2. Are there any other diagnostic steps I could take, or solutions I should look at before going this route?
3. Given what I mention above about the expansion tank and P&T valve failing, high water pressure comes to mind. But I hooked up a meter, ran a tap and measured a running pressure of ~55 PSI. The house is three storeys, I'm guessing 55 PSI is fine, but could it still be too high?