DIY

The original post: /r/diy by /u/Sneeko on 2024-11-10 21:10:08.

The original post: /r/diy by /u/lava_munster on 2024-11-10 20:38:27.

The original post: /r/diy by /u/iNCharism on 2024-11-10 20:34:41.

The original post: /r/diy by /u/e37d93eeb23335dc on 2024-11-10 20:28:32.

I'm installing a large paver patio (approx. 1600 sq feet). It will include a fire pit in the middle of a circle paver kit. I've almost reached the point where the circle will be and I'm starting to think ahead to the firepit. I've been researching online and most places I see have people placing the firepit directly on top of the pavers (usually they pry out most of the center of the circle, under the firepit, first but the firepit itself is sitting directly on top of the pavers). But that will mean the firepit is sloped like the patio (in this case the 50" firepit would slope about 1.25" from one side to the other). I don't think that will look as good as if it was level.

My thought is to create a 50" level circle on the gravel base and install the firepit, then screed in the 1" gravel around the firepit and run the pavers up to the firepit (of course I'll have to cut the ones closest to the firepit). But, since I can't find a single example online of people doing it this way, I'm assuming there are downsides I'm not considering. What do you think?

The original post: /r/diy by /u/emotionalbutterfly9 on 2024-11-10 20:25:53.

Which is the better option for strudyness and more cost effective?

The original post: /r/diy by /u/subboy_joeyyy on 2024-11-10 20:24:09.

The original post: /r/diy by /u/JohnMcClane13 on 2024-11-10 16:00:45.

Hi everyone.

The picture is the inside of my kitchen island, under the gas hob.

https://preview.redd.it/ar0q9ukdh30e1.jpg?width=2048&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a2c76b17b09ec5159b7552a3f37abf61d77cfd47

The gas hob needs power to spark, therefore, the connection pictures.

I plan to install a double socket in the cabinet that I removed to take this picture. Below is the socket.

https://preview.redd.it/kyuzhn6ij30e1.png?width=521&format=png&auto=webp&s=cd15d83c7f63766b32ffbac4cae20f71ff706a57

Would really appreciate your help with a few questions, please:

1. I don't understand why I have 2 power cables going to the fused spur (it has a fuse slot and a switch on the other side). Both power cables (grey) are live. Is there a reason for that?
2. Is there a specific type of fused spur I need to buy, one with more connection terminals, to extend power to the new double socket?
3. Should I extend one live wire to the new socket or both? Below are the instructions for the double socket, which shows 1 wire only for supply. If I need to extend 1 wire only, how do I decide which one? Does it matter?

https://preview.redd.it/6osvxt5rj30e1.png?width=338&format=png&auto=webp&s=e69c3d75f5d09cdd07e5fe9903e44673568ea81d

Many thanks all!

The original post: /r/diy by /u/pjm8876 on 2024-11-10 15:26:51.

Painted most doors in my house and when I go to rehang them they don’t close well anymore. Is this due to the added paint layers and what to do to correct the issue?

The original post: /r/diy by /u/Goof_tv on 2024-11-10 12:50:32.

Title says it all. Just bought our home. Whoever put these doors in must’ve been a few run and comes in. The top corner sticks on almost every door. And they’re all very squeaky.

Looking for the simplest way to fix both issues. Had a buddy tell me I could sand the corner of the door but didn’t know if that was actually a good idea.

And WD40 for the squeaking?

The original post: /r/diy by /u/misterwhiskers77 on 2024-11-10 02:53:30.

The original post: /r/diy by /u/0xd0gf00d on 2024-11-10 02:35:48.

We hired a plumber to replace our outdoor spigot. But he just bashed the wall with his hammer to reach the spigot from behind to replace it and left me with the repairs. I am a complete N00B but wanting to learn home repair bought a hand drywall saw, joint compound and indoor drywall to fix the damage. But it seems like there is some plastic material and insulation that he damaged (or maybe it was always like this, see picture). Should I repair this too in some way before trying to patch the drywall?

Patch to repair

The original post: /r/diy by /u/SPECTREagent700 on 2024-11-10 02:21:28.

The original post: /r/diy by /u/Gundam_XXXG-01W on 2024-11-10 01:55:28.

The original post: /r/diy by /u/OrdinaryAsleep2333 on 2024-11-09 21:19:19.

The original post: /r/diy by /u/ThrowawayNameHelp123 on 2024-11-09 21:11:59.

We have this metal saucer intended to go on a round wooden post so kids can play leapfrog. It didn't come with any hardware. There are three spots for bolts (?) that are about 1cm big and then there is one much smaller hole straight across from only one of the spots.

What would you use to secure these? They are heavy, commercial grade playground equipment, but we wanted them for our own yard.

Pictures

The original post: /r/diy by /u/mylegalusername on 2024-11-09 21:02:42.

Got this Rheem water heater 3-5yrs ago. I never got around to cleaning it out, but I am today. While I have it drained, which of course had a ton of sediment and was partially clogged, I removed the top cover for the anode rod.

Being Rheem, there was insulation covering the anode rod and before even touching it to remove it, I noticed water.

At first I thought maybe it was condensation or such, but I noticed as I removed some insulation, there was a tiny bubble that’s come up.

So my question is, will changing the anode rod solve this? The last water heater withstood 15-20yrs., iirc.

Update: images: https://imgur.com/a/WHUquSr

The original post: /r/diy by /u/Meat_Sandwiches on 2024-11-09 20:46:56.

Had some plumbing work that involved jack hammering up my foundation. Now it's time to fix the tile. Relatively small area that I want to attempt myself but I have no tiling experience. Did some research and was just looking for confirmation that my method will be correct or any advice someone wants to provide. Some pictures for reference. Note - the plumber who replaced the concrete said he intentionally left it a bit lower and that during the tiling process it should be handled to bring it level. I tried to include two pictures of the height difference, I know it can be difficult to tell from pictures.

General plan:

1. Use metal floor scraper to get up any old mortar and general gunk. Sweep/vacuum/clean up the space.
2. Chip away high spots of concrete
3. Roll on concrete primer
4. Apply self-leveling compound to try and get it even. Some areas look to be close to ~0.5" difference but I think that is fine for self-leveling? I have read that using a spiked roller brush is best practice during this.
5. Dry lay the new tile - make appropriate cuts around the rough end/any tiles that need to be cut to fit their space. From my understanding, around a 5mm gap between tiles should be left for the grout line.
6. Lay the mortar. A little confused on what type to use - these are 12"x12" porcelain tiles going straight on concrete. Haven't been to the store yet to look at materials but I'm assuming by reading the bags it should be easy to determine correct product
7. Lay tile and use tile spacers.
8. Fill in grout lines.

Tool list I'm thinking I'll need: Metal floor scraper, spiked roller brush, mortar trowel with flat and grooved edges, drill mixer, tile spacers (any recommendations?), sponge/buckets.

Thanks for any information you can provide

The original post: /r/diy by /u/RobinBed on 2024-11-09 19:34:24.

The original post: /r/diy by /u/mandaamay on 2024-11-09 19:13:43.

The original post: /r/diy by /u/CLK_85 on 2024-11-09 19:08:07.

The original post: /r/diy by /u/StephenNein on 2024-11-09 19:04:22.

We're going to room a friend of my daughter for an unknown number of months - we're going to convert our unused hot tub room to a bedroom for them. I've got a basic game plan. We're going to run a frame for a platform, covering the tub over with a false loft floor, around the outside perimeter, putting in joists up to the perimeter of the tub. I've got questions about what to do after that.

• Leave the cover on or take it off and store it elsewhere? With the cover on, it's 10.5" tall, and I'll have to use 2x12's for the frame. Cover will act as an added sound dampener, as well as keeping the tub from getting (more) dust or dirt from into an old dry tub. Cover off, and I can use 2x8's or 10's. I planned to fill the voids with some insulation for sound anyway - the whole thing is gonna be a monster sound reverb box either way.
• Use what for stringers? I don't want the weight to come in contact with the fiberglass tub. 2x4's? across 6-8 feet? or would 2x6's be more appropriate for weight? Or bigger?
• They've seen the room so they know they'll have this odd floor/loft arrangement and they're thrilled with the opportunity for an unusual room - "well, so am I!" - and they're planning all the floor space they can get. They're bringing a bed and dresser, and maybe anything else they can lay hands on when they leave.

(Obviously we're going to clean all the junk out! Except for the stereo. :) )

https://preview.redd.it/q76alsx3cxzd1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1671a35a9218ef756cd0003e07801f34544dc990

https://preview.redd.it/56su2tx3cxzd1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=27b42be203139b657e3efc03d6e74517bfc96145

https://preview.redd.it/6hejzrx3cxzd1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8facb1aa50439065ef62ddb9bd81c516d01e2cff

The original post: /r/diy by /u/matt-854 on 2024-11-09 18:13:58.

Hi all, I want to make some 2x8 (or 2x6) floating shelves. I want them to really have the floating effect with no brackets visible. I assumed I had metal framing at 24" OC as I have throughout the apartment, but after some digging, it is a block wall with 1/2" drywall on wood furring strips.

My original idea was to use fasten these toggle bolts into metal framing, but after I found out it is a block wall, I am thinking of just doing a few toggle bolts into the drywall. My idea is to insert threaded rods into the toggle bolts, and pre drill the hole in the wood shelf to slide onto the toggle bolts. I'm no engineer, but I imagine if I do 5 of these per shelf to support, it will be enough to hold the shelf and whatever I put on it. The shelf length will be about 6'.

I estimate the shelf itself will weigh about 25 lbs, and with whatever I put on it, around 40lbs with stuff on it. Lets just call it 50lbs total to be safe. Below is the spec sheet for the toggle bolts I want to use. Do you think this is a good idea? Is there another approach to achieving the same design? Appreciate any feedback.

https://preview.redd.it/o5b3ko3y0xzd1.png?width=1067&format=png&auto=webp&s=08b097b3ac2599616000cad6c9482a3f2dc5d6e9

The original post: /r/diy by /u/tomatolounge on 2024-11-09 16:47:35.

My sash window won't close and it's getting cold!

The sash on the right side is stuck.

If I raise and slam the window I can feel a weight in the right side 'bounce'.

How can I repair> Would it hurt to cut the right sash as a temporary measure - or is that just causing more trouble?

The original post: /r/diy by /u/Weavler87 on 2024-11-09 16:27:52.

The original post: /r/diy by /u/Shhhh_for_now on 2024-11-09 16:12:50.