Welcome to R/3D Printing! Come for the Benchy, stay for the Calibration!

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/r/3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed...

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The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/TheMuffinReal on 2025-01-03 23:24:22.

I just bought a new hotend assembly for my ender 3 v2 but when i heated it up for the first time (only 200c) it has this weird smell, Ive thought it might be the wires next to the hotend but i checked and nothing was burning.. is this normal for new hotends or is something wrong? Also it isnt the filament because it smells even before loading some in.

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The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/Ok_Confusion_5518 on 2025-01-03 23:23:50.

https://preview.redd.it/sbdjapya4vae1.jpg?width=1794&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=111bb69ea7f5cd97b8cb67179eec1d82cd6a496e

https://preview.redd.it/8lykjngb4vae1.png?width=869&format=png&auto=webp&s=00e336009e2eacf1187a22d9c487baaa3e856f29

In the first image the bed mesh shows me way different Z offset than on screw tilt... what should i do? I mean, when i adjust it to sit with bed mesh it does not adjust with screw tilt...

Printer Neptune 4

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The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/Princessofpower25 on 2025-01-03 23:17:55.

Original Title: What causes these "holes" during slicing? Using Bambu Stuido with a1 mini but keep getting these weird gaps during slicing and it shows up just like this on the print as well. Is there a better setting I can use to get rid of them or something?

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The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/navyitc on 2025-01-03 23:16:46.

Original Title: Appreciate advice for this issue this issue - TU. I've tried both Bambu PLA Matte and ELEGOO PLA +(pictured) - similar results. I'm learning...sometimes by error! BTW, this is propeller for an LA class Submarine.

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The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/TCXC25 on 2025-01-03 23:15:13.
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The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/EvanCT4 on 2025-01-03 23:14:30.
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The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/SpikeH-K on 2025-01-03 23:14:28.

Hey team. I'm putting away my Christmas decorations, and many of the nicer things I have are packed in styrofoam inside a cardboard box. As most of these things are 30, 40, 50 years old, the styrofoam is breaking, either little crumbs flying all over, or entire chunks that have broken off.

Would it be possible to 3D print a lightweight packing frame that would cradle my keepsakes without the mess?

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The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/Terrible-Physics7476 on 2025-01-03 23:13:13.

Hi, I’m currently having issues with my printer I’m new to 3D printing. I don’t understand what’s the issue. I recently bought a kp3s 3.0 second hand and was working great. I decided to change my nozzle to harden steel and my heat break throat to titanium. After changing I printed like micro benchy with pla+ and was fine. I used some of my friend’s abs. I printed a few parts like the bearing for the z screw and a benchy all was ok.

After a few day Ltr I tried to print with my pla+ but couldn’t feed it as it got clogged at the heat sink. I took it apart and put it back. While put it back the spring came of and I couldn’t remember how tight it was so I just tightened it. It was too much as there was shaving on the side and prints on air without filament coming out. I have to keep pulling it out and cut it refeed it. Managed to print 2 xyz cube before it completely got fked now. As how many times I refeed it doesn’t want to extrude using the gear.

I can push down the filament manually without an issue but if I stopped pushing for a while I can’t push it anymore have to cut again. Filament not an issue at I have used it on my friend’s printer without an issue. Also sometimes I hear clicking sounds. I have played around with temperature,speed but doesn’t work.

Printer:kp3s 3.0 Nozzle:210 Bed:60 Filament:local brand pla+ Speed:60

Please help me I want to get my printer back to working properly. Sorry for the really long post I just didn’t want to miss anything.

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The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/Lopsided-Me on 2025-01-03 23:13:09.
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The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/muederJoe on 2025-01-03 23:12:16.

Hi all, I have a Sovol SV06 Plus running Klipper with the printbed mounted on silicone dampers. This way I can adjust the printbed using the screws along with the "screws tilt calculate" macro.

While this works well, it requires the z-axis to be perpendicular to the x-axis. For this type of printer, an offset can be corrected by holding one of the z-axis rods and rotating the other one until the angle reaches 90°. I do have a hard time measuring or calibrating the angle between the axes.

Do you trust the 'mechanical gantry calibration' or do you have a best practice to obtain perfectly aligned axes?

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The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/pussy_licker_2000 on 2025-01-03 23:10:52.
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The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/agepbiz on 2025-01-03 22:23:02.
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The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/Party_Fun_4345 on 2025-01-03 22:15:49.
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The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/TheReal_OGMudbone on 2025-01-03 22:08:41.
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The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/FearAlones on 2025-01-03 21:46:50.
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The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/CasefProps on 2025-01-03 20:38:18.
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The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/Nemo_Griff on 2025-01-03 19:34:43.
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The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/Sudden-Morning-1381 on 2025-01-03 19:08:28.
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The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/Ok-Community-7700 on 2025-01-03 17:58:44.
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The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/BangosSkank on 2025-01-03 17:15:06.
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The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/Forward_Falcon_3910 on 2025-01-03 16:47:21.
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The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/Jerricky-_-kadenfr- on 2025-01-03 16:41:12.
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The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/Micropolitan1 on 2025-01-03 16:07:57.
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The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/Leniwcowaty on 2025-01-03 15:14:56.

So today I have run out of filament literally 5 layers from the end, just before top layers started printing. I knew it would be a close call, the model required 56 g, I checked the spool with the remaining filament and it was like 180 g. I thought this spool alone cannot be more than 100 g, so let's go.

Well, only after the filament run out I was able to check and the empty spool was actually 130 g. So I had about 50 g of filament. And yes, slicer is not always right, but if I knew it would be THIS close, I would reduce infill or something, to have a bit of a wiggle room.

And it struck me... How much more convinient would it be, if the spools had their weight stamped on them during manufacturing. It's not like every spool is different, most of them are injection molded with precise amount of material. It can't be hard to just include their intended weight on the mold, right? So that we can weight the material we have, subtract the spool and know exactly how much filament we have to work with.

So... why is it not a common practice? I saw that once, with some obscure, cheap filament. Never on any Fiberlogy, Sunlu...

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The original post: /r/3dprinting by /u/Kronocide on 2025-01-03 14:55:55.
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